Part 2: 1 Hour Brazil
Day 2
Brazil is just a stepping stone. My first destination is Santa Cruz Bolivia. I had tried to get to Bolivia on the RTW ticket but I couldn't get a decent connection via MIA with AA, which seemed to be the only sensible way and in the end after some searching I found the best way was to fly to GRU and take a one way flight to VVI with Gol airlines, Brazil major budget carrier.
24 hours previously I had tried to check in online but had been baffled in my attempts. After consulting the online chat I was told by a helpful bot that my ticket was all kosher and safe but I had to go to check in kiosks. This thwarted my plans to stay in transit and meant a quick entry into Brazil. As it happens Brazil immigration was well staffed and it appeared that the planes landing were mostly filled with Brazilians as the queues for Brazilian nationals were four-fold bigger than ours. I was through in about 2 minutes and had to negotiate my way from Terminal 3 to 2.
Coming into arrivals it was up one floor and a walk around the maze of restaurants and cafes to terminal 2, which is connected to T3. I arrived at the self check in desk, it said to go to the main desks. I go to the check desks only to be told after some typing that I had to go to the ticket office. Another 5 minute walk away. I arrived at the ticket desk dreading what potential ticketing calamity had befallen me. I was firstly asked for my passport, then the credit card I paid the flight with and after a 4 minute phone call to someone else, the ticket officer handed me a boarding pass and said safe flight! Firstly it’s unlikely I’ll never know what the issue was and secondly I didn't know ticket offices had the ability to print boarding passes!
Security was done in about 4 minutes and the immigration officer seemed more interested in talking to her colleague than me and I was whisked out of Brazil back into airside land in just over an hour…..well at least I got two Brazilian stamps in my passport!
Gol has its own lounge and as I has bought a premium ticket I could use it. The lounge is used by the Skyteam members and I was surprised by its comfort. contemporary furniture, showers, a very typical but edible Brazilian breakfast selection and a burnt orange decor, this would be my home for the 4 hour wait for the flight to Bolivia. The lounge was frequented by well heeled South Americans and I perched myself on a seat over looking the airport and Sao Paulo skyline in the background and as I sat there responding to messages in a very active WhatsApp group chat to friends who are 6000 miles away, I get this sense that we live in an amazing world.
As lounges go, it ain't half bad
Gol Airlines G37714
GRU(T2)-VVI
Seat 2D
Departure 10:20 (scheduled) 10:15 (actual)
Flight time 2h 27m
This is my first time on Gol airlines and to be honest I didn't know what to expect. I’ve been to Brazil once before and on a short haul flight last time I flew with TAM, just before the LATAM merger and I was very impressed, clean on time and very efficient. Judging by it’s lounge and the cabin very clearly proud of it partnerships with Delta, Air France KLM, on the face of it should be a decent package.
Excellent leg room for the prat perches. Did you know they're Skyteam partners!
The lounge make boarding calls as flights change from boarding to closing so by the time I got to the gate most of the plane was boarded. It was a fairly swift process. On Gol's premium ticket, it guarantees you space in the overhead bin, blocked middle seat and more legroom. the legroom is very impressive, (even after take off when the tiny female passenger in 1D who preceded to recline to the max as soon as the belt light flicked off) I found the legroom better than nearly all European short haul business class products I can remember. They offered a ham and cheese croissant which was edible and at the end, a cup of hot, very strong and typically delicious Brazilian coffee.
This time I had no one joining me in 2F but the eclectic mix of passengers gave me something to muse over, older couples to teenage girls in groups, it always amazes me no matter where you go in the world, people are moving places. Whilst this Gol 737 is little on the older side it’s holding up well and it takes me to my first real destination with minimal fuss. I’m impressed with Gol, it left on time and landed ahead of schedule and I would certainly not hesitate to fly with them again. As I’m thinking about how to grade Gol I observe for the first time the cabin crew in the cockpit whilst the pilot goes to the toilet. I’m sure I’ve seen it before but this is the first time I’ve taken it in and considered its significance. Although it’s some years since the Germanwings tragedy but these are the moments when you realise how important those two in the front are. I seldom think about the dangers of air travel, I accept that with everything in life there will always be an element of risk which you cant ever negate 100%, but this TR has put me in the a mood of reflection and some usual thoughts come into my head.
This is will be my second time in Bolivia and Santa Cruz, I came here last time for about 15 hours on a bit of a whim. I was already planning on a South American tour when I was introduced to the client Im meeting again, seeing the potential and remembering I was going to be a short flight away I managed to sneak in a short afternoon and evening in Bolivia when I was on the trip, it paid off as this client has been a steady but good one since. Having established ourselves this time with him as a trust worthy partner. I’m here on the harder sell. I have two and half days to find out his needs and then sell myself as the fixer of them. He’s his own boss and it’s a family business so I know visiting on the weekend wont be a problem so it maximises my time on a trip knowing I wont have to waste two days idle in a hotel.
I was pleasantly surprised by Santa Cruz, my client described it to me before I visited as “Miami without the sea” Whilst I cant say this is an accurate description it is the economic centre of Bolivia, boosted by the gas industry in the past the growth is here and it’s reflected in the number of newer cars and western hotel chains. This time I’m feeling better, no first country visit nerves, I know the airport and I’m prepared for the strict customs checks on arrival and familiar with the city, I can focus more on doing the job rather than a familiarisation with the new place.
I land into Santa Cruz 15 minutes early and walk into the immigration, The border officers stamp my passport so fast and wave me through it barely leaves my hand and after making a hash of my customs declaration form twice ,yet they don't require a further inspection so I’m through into Bolivia.
I'm through quickly enough that it catches out my client who's picking me up. after 20 minutes of waiting he and his wife duly arrive, all casual small talk aside and we are on the way. Ashamedly my Spanish is resolved to small phrases and numbers, His english is based mostly on films which means it’s half decent, I quite enjoy spending time working out translations here and there and the conversations never stop. He’s a year or so older than me so we have a rapport straight away. Its off to a Peruvian restaurant with his wife for seafood lunch. The place looks like someones house from the exterior with no signage at all but inside is a traditional family style place in a Mediterranean way. It's Saturday lunch so big tables full of families who are there enjoying plates of calamari and other foods of the ocean.
The afternoon is spent with him and his two young sons, we drive about an hour out of Santa Cruz and visit some of his clients, I’m paraded as the Gringo with connections and I get to do one of my favourite things. Seeing a country for what it is. It surprises me how sandy and barren it is. This part of Bolivia has a decent community of German descended people and all of a sudden some very Aryan faces appear, the feeling I get is what pushed people to move here. Unlike Argentina or USA, Bolivia’s landscape is nothing like Europe and its makes me wonder how hard life must of been for these peoples who felt compelled to move to these harsh pastures new.
We had back into town talking business along the way and we go for dinner at a burger restaurant. Bolivia it seems is no different to anywhere else and the gentrified hipster burger place has made it here. It’s logo is a skull with a beard and the name of food harks to British musical references, burgers such are ‘Revolver’ and ‘Sargent Pepper’ litter the menu, all in all the burgers aren't bad. I prefer Five Guys but its USP is the black ink put into the bread to change the colour, it’s something I've seen in Japan and whilst it doesn't make the taste better it does give something to Instagram about.
I’m staying in the Radisson on the outskirts of town. It’s a new development with villas and condos, plans for a shopping centre and in pride of place is this two year old hotel. The reception staff wears a grey jacket that looks like he borrowed it from a old uncle but his english is without much accent and I’m swiftly to my room. After a night at BA's leisure and a wait in GRU it doesn't take me long to fall to sleep and besides waking up briefly during the night I get 8 hours of decent sleep.
Day 3
My client asks me if I want to watch some football (soccer) I’m not the biggest fan of football but if makes sales I’ll do most things. He’s picking me up at 10am so I head down for breakfast. I’m fascinated by hotel breakfasts, I believe them to be a microcosm on life, They are universally loved around the world and you can read a lot into people by their selection from the counter. it’s quite busy but mostly with middle class Bolivian families visiting for perhaps the weekend and two elder Americans I imagine to be energy executives.
My habit is to go straight to the orange juice, My general rule on hotel breakfast is if the orange juice is good then the rest of it will be, whilst that isn't always the case it’s more true than not. Fortunately the orange juice is freshly squeezed and it reflects with the rest being a good selection, the omelette chef is so keen to make one she comes around the counter to help you plate other food in the hope of you asking for an omelette. I had a bowl of cereal and some scrambled egg, finish up and wait for my pick up.
What I imagine as a local football team turns out to be a football tournament for his old primary (elementary) school. Each school graduation year enters and at the end they light bangers and the winning teams runs around with a trophy. My client teams goes out in the first round, however it becomes very obvious it’s an excuse to see friends of old and drink beer. The school’s carnival band comes out and the beer doesn't stop for 6 hours. Bolivian beer appears to me based on Germany beers in look. Whilst its more than palatable it isn't particularly strong, and by 6pm we’re ready to go home, me the least drunk. My client is impressed with my drinking and I tell him to make to the UK and he can drink some real beer. I’m back at the Radisson by 7pm, feeling tired as much as tipsy. A shower, a bottle of coke and some comfort food is what I need. The Bolivian love a potatoes perhaps it’s only rivalled by Ireland and after what feels like 6 types of different potato plus corn, rice and strips of sirloin I’m ready for bed.
And the band begins to play
Day 4
Sleep is harder this time. I wake up a few more times than before and by 6am I give up trying. I pack my bag and head down for breakfast. Where as yesterdays breakfast was a hive of activity, today is more like a library. A few suits like myself but Sunday night appears to have been a slow night for this hotel. The morning story turns out to be on my return from breakfast to find my hotel room door wide open, I’m instantly thinking that they don't mess about the cleaners only to find none, panic then befalls me, left out exposed is iPad, and if they dig hard over 500 USD cash and my laptop, fortunately the hotel appears so quiet I think I was the last person on the fifth floor and after going through nothing is missing. My confusion as to how this happened doesn't take long as when I leave the room to check out I notice the door doesn't self shut and has to be physically pulled to lock, not the best idea.
I liked the Radisson, the staff were eager, it was modern, clean, big comfortable bed, the breakfast was better than most in Europe and wifi that was fast enough to watch videos from youtube. It’s biggest flaw was the A/C, which had two speeds, hurricane or tornado, which created a lot of noise, light sleepers would really struggle as a gayle blows through. there was not a slow fan option and whist switching it off made it silent, it would be 2 hours before the 30c heat outside came into the room. Not only that but the air filters for the system needs replacing or introducing as some odd smells came though at times, still I would stay again.
The somewhat interesting architecture of the hotel atrium
My client takes me to the customs warehouse where all goods go for clearance. Its a maze of containers ands warehouses full of all things you can imagine. Starbucks coffee beans, air fans and spare parts for tractors. A pile of motorbikes sit there doomed to rust to death as they haven't passed some emissions test or the importer hasn't paid the right import duties. I think he brings me here to show the situation for commerce in Bolvia, he has some products in here and expects them to be out ‘in 20 working days or so’ This sort of bureaucracy is still alive in the developing world but Bolivia is particularly acute due to its lack of sea port.
The motorcycle graveyard for imported vehicles which the import duty hasn't been paid. Saw a near new Harley Davidson in there!
We had back to his office to meet some of his staff but the waiting at the warehousing has pushed our plans back and my hard sales pitch is forced to be done in the car heading to the airport. it doesn't go quite as I am imagine but we have a friendship developing, and whilst I can't see a lot of sales straight away, Im sure we’ll do more business. I think a quick email a day or so after will reiterate my visit purpose.
Bolivia seems to be the only country I’ve visited which has more controls going out the country than in. At check in I have to fill a from in, asking for the usual details. this is for the airline and it’s some sort of exemption but it doesn't explain. You then go through the security screening, which unlike the rest of South America is about on European levels in terms of liquids in bags and electronic devices. This then leads onto your luggage having a thorough search for drugs (messing up my packing system!) Then you have to fill out a customs declaration identical to the one you did on the way in and finally you have passport control. The customs paper is taken by the ground crew at boarding, presumably where it’s used to power the furness of some government building somewhere, on a busy day this process could take an hour plus but it’s quiet when I arrive 1hour 10 before the scheduled depart time.
Aerolineas Argentinas AR1369
VVI-AEP
Club Economy Seat 2D
Departure 14:05 (scheduled) 14:30 (actual)
Flight time 2h 42m
This is my third flight with Aerolineas Argentinas and both times they were delayed and today they are true to form, a 30 minute delay. I made my way to the Priority Pass lounge, which had all of one guest once I got in and 4 staff who spent most of the time on their phones and at one point they turned half the lights off in an ‘get out of here’ way but on the plus side the wifi was really fast! However what Aerolineas fails with punctuality it made up with a very quick turnaround when the plane landed and a top notch offering in short haul business class.
The seat is genuinely comfortable in a old fashioned way and whilst I understand the model the europeans carriers are running for J I do wish we got something more like this back home.The club economy section has 8 seats and on this flight I have one other companion in the cabin sat in 2A. He looks like some Argentina football scout, chasing raw talent to bring back to Argentina on the cheap, with a wiry frame and a walk like a cat.
I wish all short haul J class seats were as comfortable as this
Along came drinks and a typical Argentina Queso and Jambon sandwich with no crust and cabin service that wasn't the normal Argentinian polite but aloof but a genuine effort to please. The CC brought some newspapers and once discovered I didn't speak or read much Spanish, showed me that the inflight magazine was dual language.
The turnaround was so quick we landed almost on schedule and the transfer process in AEP was rudimental but effective. This first thing that strikes me when I deplane is the move from tropical climate to spring, whereas Santa Cruz was 36c and not too far off the equator, we’re in early spring 2 1/2 hours south and the cooler air feels like a change for the better. Aeroparque Jorge Newbury is the major airport for regional and domestic flights in Argentina and last time I came here there was a decent food court…. which I forgot was before immigration. It’s international areas is mostly a fairly large duty free shop, one uninspiring cafe and a lot of plastic seating and no lounge options from any airline. So I pick a seat with a window view and watched the Buenos Aries sun go down. It’s a city I've been to once before and it’s a city that I put in my global top 10, but today it’s just a screenshot imagine and a springboard to Uruguay.
Lovely Sunset of BA before the Chaos ensured....
Aerolineas Argentinas AR2386
AEP-MVD
Club Economy Seat 3A
Departure 20:45 CANCELED
However once again Aerolineas throw a spanner in the works and 2 minutes after the flight is meant to depart the flight is cancelled. Chaos pretty much ensues straight away as what appears to be half of Buenos Aries surrounds the gate desk, I decide to be a little patient and let the Latinos have their theatrics, eventually Aerolineas get hold of the situation and we’re escorted to immigration. As I’m a transit passenger we get moved to the front of the queue and escorted to the check in desks where I’m rebooked onto the 8am flight and where we are told we’ll get a hotel and food for the night. Which at first seemed like a disaster before has turned very quickly into a bit of jolly, I get visions in my head of a night visiting a friend I know in the city and mountains of pampas beef with red wine all on Aerolineas' expense. This delay wont affect me to much as I’m in meetings all day from 10am in Montevideo so I should be there in time, I call my contact in Montevideo and he informs me that the driver can still get me and take me straight to the meetings.
I receive my boarding pass for tomorrow flights and I’m told to go customer services for my hotel voucher, the queue takes about an hour as some passengers seems to be making a spectacle and one gets so irate about
8 airline staff surround him and for a brief moment I was certain a fight was going to kick off. Eventually everyone calms down and the staff speed up and I’m given a voucher for the Hotel Presidente and I'm told to bring my taxi receipts for claiming back in the morning. I book a private car and head into town. Whilst in the queue it occurred to me that I hadn't eaten since midday and the notion of just getting a pizza appeals to me more than a sit down meal. In the end none of this comes to pass as by the time I get to the hotel room my hunger as formed itself into sleepiness and with a 5:30 am start and only 6 hours till then I just get my things ready and go to sleep.