Originally Posted by ksandness

I did a ragged circle of Shikoku a few years back and loved it. I don't know how things are now, but I rarely saw another Westerner.

I took the ferry from Hiroshima to Matsuyama and stayed in downtown Matsuyama on the streetcar line to Dogo Onsen, although it is possible to stay in the Onsen area itself. As a budget traveler, I found more it more affordable to stay downtown and commute to the baths.

Then I went along the west coast down to Kochi, changing trains at Uwajima. Kochi is a subtropical city with a castle and a relaxed air.

Then it was through the middle of the island through some rugged scenery (I saw whitewater rafters) to Kotohira, the site of a famous shrine, which requires you to climb a thousand wide steps, of course, stopping for refreshments and souvenirs in the shops located on the steps. The views from the top are wonderful.

From there it was a short distance to Takamatsu, home of the extensive Ritsurin gardens.

I didn't hike to any of the pilgrimage temples, but that's another possibility if you have the time and stamina, and no one is required to hike the full circuit.

I backtracked a bit and took the train over the Seto Ohashi over the Inland Sea to Okayama and Kurashiki.

The Japan Sea coast is another less-touristed area. Matsue, home of expat writer Lafcadio Hearn, is a lovely city with a castle and canals, Izumo is the site of one of the most famous Shinto shrines, and Hagi is a well-known pottery town.

Get a guidebook and start dreaming. At some point, some itinerary will leap out of the pages at you.