Originally Posted by
Stewie Mac
last night here in Naples, and looking for somewhere for final pizza. Two small kids so eating early (say 8) and don't want to have to queue. Had Sorbillo takeaway, Pellone (as recommended upthread, excellent and enormous!) and centenario (Materdei, aiming for Starita and didn't know it was closed Monday!). Would do Pellone again but as noted area is sketchy. Can't face the wait for Sorbillo. Anywhere around centro storico or south/west, as will be down near Castel Nuevo beforehand.
anyone?
You are probably gone already given the time difference, but Gino Sorbillo has a satellite place right on the water that allows you to escape the 1-2 hour lines. It's called Lievito Madre al Mare. It's a little past Castel dell'Ovo, not Castel Nuovo. That's not too far. 50 Kalo is a little bit farther up, but is also a destination for pizza.
Since tourists tend to avoid Naples, although that is rapidly changing and it is now becoming a hot spot, unlike Rome, Florence, and Venice, the food is generally going to be very good, anywhere except around the maritime cruise ship terminal (Unfortunately, that means where you are near Castel Nuovo). It's sort of like eating in Sorrento. Not good, just touristy food. It's also hit or miss near the train station, mostly miss.
But you do much better eating in Naples than almost anywhere else among the major cities. If you want pizza and you really don't know where to go, one thing that is helpful is to look for a sign outside with a picture of a baker, and it says, "Vera Pizza Napolitano." Naples is even trying to get its pizza recognized by UNESCO as a world heritage thing, it is that good.
In order to protect its name, there is an association called Associazone Verace Pizza Napolitana (VPN). They wrote up standards about what you have to meet to be of the highest quality pizza, from the oven, to the flour, and everything else. Places that meet it get the sign outside. Look for the sign for your pizza place, and you'll have assurance that you are not eating crap, which is a real risk near the cruise terminal, Castel Nuovo area.
VPN is actually around the world. There are about a dozen places in the USA that meet VPN standards. There's one in San Francisco that I go to every now and then.
In Naples it's a little controversial. Some places feel their reputation stands for itself, and that are not joining any organization and paying annual dues to be recognized as having great pizza. Sorbillos is an example. And even some VPN places aren't that great, but knowing about this can save you from some of the worst stuff near the Maritime Terminal.
This is the sign you'd be looking for hanging outside.