Escaping to Ramgarh Bungalows
Introduction The Ramgarh Bungalows is a set of historic bungalows set in the Himalayan village of Ramgarh, famed for its associations with literary and spiritual greats, organic orchards, and fantastic mountain views. It makes for a low-key but incredibly relaxing escape. Booking The hotel is run by the Neemrana chain of heritage hotels, and its advisable to book with them directly, preferably over phone, as all rooms are unique and you could really use the staff's advice over what to book or otherwise. The phone helpline is very efficient. Transfers We drove down to the property by ourselves from Delhi - around 8 hours of largely comfortable driving with a small rough patch en route. The mountain roads are in great shape, and the drive very therapeutic. The hotel can fix you up with a local taxi should you need it. Check In Painless. We arrived at around sunset, and were quickly ushered to our rooms and offered in-room dining if we were too tired to head out to the restaurant. Check in formalities were pushed for the next day, 'whenever we felt well rested'. Nice. Location The bungalows sit discontinuously along the ridge of upper Ramgarh village. Its in the middle of a bowl-shaped valley full of fruit orchards, and is probably one of the most relaxing places on the planet. You only have to walk up ten minutes to come in view of snow-capped Himalayan peaks, plenty of them seven thousanders, including the revered Nanda Devi. Furthermore, Ramgarh makes a great base for regional exploration. The view-towns of Mukteshwar, the Binsar sanctuary, and the lakes of Nainital, Naukuchiatal, and Sattal are all within two hour's drive, providing for a great mix of sights - mountain views, wildlife walks, birding, boating, adventure sports, urban exploration, village life, agritourism - you name it, the region has it. In terms of broader accessibility, the hotel is under two-and-a-half hours drive from the small Pantnagar airport (daily flights to Delhi), and less than two from Kathgodam Railway (half-a-day to Delhi on a comfortable express train). This is really useful as long mountain drives in the Indian Himalayas are quite punishing, physically. Room The property is essentially a set of historic bungalows, and offers rooms that offer anywhere between two and five beds, many in close vicinity. This makes it a great place for groups and families.The rooms themselves are tasteful, featuring period design and furniture. They aren't necessarily slick, but comfy and true to the history they represent. There are no televisions or phones - only a bell to call the staff. Rooms have verandahs and sit-out lawns, and most feature grand fireplaces and picture windows. They're largely geared towards slow living, if you may. The cottages are all things of beauty, wistful reminders of the past, and each tells a different story and offers a different view. I'd check in here just for a chance to stay in these pretty buidings. Design The style is definitively colonial here, with constant references to the days of the British Raj, and their sahib-style lives in the mountains. As a result, you have a veritable sea of period furniture and artwork typically themed around nature. Select cottages have a slightly more contemporary feel with excellent artwork as well. Service Simple and efficient, with little fuss. The staff is all local, knowledgeable, and hospitable. While they may lack the polish of fancier properties, they will strive to get your request completed. I personally think its part of the charm of living in a place like this. Dining The dining hall offers a decent buffet meal, which can also be packed for picnics. Food utilises fresh mountain produce and is generally quiet wholesome and healthy. Picnic hampers can be packed on request.Breakfast is stunning - set on a terrace overlooking the valley, with a selection of dishes on offer, all cooked fresh and delivered to the table. The highlight, however, is the huge set of exceptional, locally produced organic jams - with staff happily pointing out which tree the jars came from.There is little outside the resort, unless you're willing to drive at least an hour away, or eat at a roadside stall - again, simple and hearty fare with little risk of contamination as everything here seems to be cooked fresh. Facilities The staff can arrange excursions, walks, fires, stargazing, treks, picnics, garden games, fishing - basically anything the region can offer - thanks to their links with the local communities. These are all quite authentic, and well priced. Apart from that, this is a quiet property - though they are happy to offer bespoke services should you book for an event.There is no swimming or wifi or television or direct dial telephone here (unless you're okay freezing yourself in the river). This is total digital detox (though you get a decent mobile signal). Overall Ramgarh Bungalow is simple and efficient, but its star attraction is the relaxation it offers, and its unique setting. Value for money too is astounding, and I'm surprised it's remained a secret so far. Just don't go expecting upscale luxury - this is a very different place.