Although the landscape mellows a bit between Gore and Glenwood Canyon, it is no less beautiful. As a boy I used to ride horses and raft all through these parts. As you might imagine the river is extremely popular with fly fishermen. One once told me that the river averages 2,000 plus rainbow and brown trout per mile with many over 16 inches in length.



There’s lots of red soil in this part of the state


This view epitomizes Colorful Colorado


Multi-colored canyons abound


What a great day for a train ride!


Colorful Colorado


One of the prettiest rafting canyons is nicknamed “Christmas Tree Canyon” for the green spruce and fir trees that dot its rocky red terrain. It’s a pretty nice canyon to ride a train through as well.



Entering Christmas Tree Canyon


Christmas Tree Canyon


Leaving Christmas Tree Canyon


As we continued west and the river dropped ever lower, the land became progressively greener. Here’s a pretty shot as we approach Gypsum near the eastern entrance to Glenwood Canyon.



Springtime in the Rockies


Normally luncheon in the dining car is on a walk-in basis. No reservations are required. Occasionally however if the demand is great enough the dining car staff start a wait list. Anyone wanting to each lunch would have to report to the diner and get signed up. Names would be called out over the train’s PA system as seats became available. Surprisingly, we were informed that after people on the wait list had been fed, the dining car would be closed. There would be no last call for lunch. Okay then, guess I’d better go get on that list.

Wouldn’t you know it that my name would be called just as we were about five minutes from entering Glenwood Canyon! As such, I was stuck on an aisle seat in the diner enjoying my favorite black bean chipotle burger while we rolled through the splendor of Glenwood Canyon. Sigh…

I’ve ridden the train through Glenwood Canyon at least 30 times and driven through it many more times than that. I’ll live without the extra photos but I’m sorry I won’t be able to provide you with any. In lieu of my personal shots, I hope you’ll accept this stunning overhead shot courtesy of the Colorado Department of Transportation.



Glenwood Canyon
Photo courtesy of Colorado Department of Transportation


Glenwood Springs is a popular destination for California Zephyr passengers, and rightly so. The town’s famous hot springs have been attracting visitors since 1888 and feature the world’s largest hot springs pool. The big pool is kept at 90°F but for the more adventurous there is a smaller pool that’s kept at a toasty 112°F. The town itself is as charming as its setting is beautiful. I have spent many a night at the local hostel where a private room with a mattress on the floor can be had for just $27.00/night. Those desiring more upscale accommodations will find plenty of other options, including the trendy Hotel Colorado, located just across the river from the hot springs.

As the Zephyr rolls on into western Colorado and Utah, the climate becomes drier and the land becomes more brown.



Colorado River west of Rifle, CO


Colorado River State Park about 6 mi outside of Grand Junction, CO


Space in the lounge car began to open up as we left Glenwood. I found Charles and Linda enjoying the view as we rolled west through Newcastle and, after purchasing a cold beer downstairs, I joined them for a spell in the swivel seat section of the lounge.

Amtrak’s Bi-Level Sightseer lounge cars are wonderful creations! Windows are everywhere, starting at knee level and continuing overhead. They are available to all passengers regardless of class traveled and are perfect for this route in particular with its deep canyons and towering rock walls above. The upper level seats about 60 people with one half of the car offering individual seats and couches while the other half offers buffet table seating. Some of the seats are able to swivel 360 degrees so that if the scenery’s better on the other side of the train, you won’t miss it.



Passengers enjoying the view in the lounge car


A close up of the swivel seats


Half of the upper deck is buffet seating


A snack bar is located on the lower level. Its menu offers a variety of hot and cold sandwiches, cheese pizza, noodle bowls, candy, peanuts, and all manner of soft and hard drinks. It’s worth noting here that the First Class fare does not include items purchased in the lounge café. While I thought the prices for the food items were quite reasonable, the prices for Amtrak’s beer and alcohol selections made me happy that my nephew had brought along that bottle of Jack Daniels.

I bid farewell to Charles and Linda in Grand Junction and said hello to Dorothy and Amy – mother and daughter who had boarded in Denver and were traveling to Reno, Nevada to join friends for a few days of fun and sun in South Lake Tahoe. They had a big condo rented in town and were excited to try their luck at the casinos. They also had a host of other activities planned, one of the more entertaining being a two hour paddle wheel cruise around Lake Tahoe. Amy claimed it was her first trip out of Colorado in 11 years. Their enthusiasm was infectious and chatting with them really epitomized one of the best parts of a long ride on a train – meeting and sharing stories with your fellow passengers. I told them all about my recent travels but left out the part about my stolen wallet. Who wants to hear bad news and besides, I now had $300.00 pocket change to tide me over for the next few days.

On a long train ride, it’s not unusual for the train to go through areas that are quite scenic. Generally these areas might take an hour or two to get through and then it’s back to pleasant but otherwise unspectacular scenery. I am happy to report that this is not the case on the California Zephyr – at least once it heads west out of Denver.

We started the day with a pretty climb out of Denver and up along South Boulder Creek to the Moffat Tunnel. From Granby we joined the Colorado River and followed it through a series of spectacularly beautiful canyons – seemingly one after another – all the way to Glenwood Springs. That took 6 hours. The scenery mellowed a bit between Glenwood Springs and Grand Junction but now it picked up yet again as we entered the beautiful red Canyonlands of eastern Utah.



Entering Ruby Canyon


Ruby Canyon


Ruby Canyon


Red rock goblins watch our passing


Leaving Ruby Canyon, the Zephyr emerges into the arid desert landscape of east central Utah. To the north of the train runs the thousand-foot-high wall of cliffs known as “The Book Cliffs”. It is the longest continuous line of cliffs in the world, winding for about 250 miles from western Colorado well into Utah.



Utah’s Book Cliffs


Utah’s Book Cliffs


What a great setting for dinner! This time I ordered the Field and Sea combo – complete with Béarnaise Sauce and baked potato. Amtrak’s chefs sear their shrimp as well as they cook their steaks. This meal was delicious!



Field and Sea Combo


Later in the lounge car I struck up a conversation with Leon, a mechanic from Fallon, Nevada who had spent the winter converting an old school bus into functional RV. I don’t recall how we got to talking but we had a few points in common including the fact that I drive school busses that have been modified for gravel road driving through the wilds of Denali National Park in Alaska. Additionally, we both enjoyed driving around the backroads of North America and we both had quite a bit of experience driving around the Desert Southwest.

Conversation continued as I broke out my bottle of Jack Daniels. Discretion is the key here because you’re not allowed to drink your own alcohol in the train’s public areas. Sleeping Car passengers may drink their own supply in their compartments but I thought the lounge had a much nicer ambiance than that of my roomette back in the sleeper.



Lounge Car ambiance – speeding across Utah at sunset


Leon had a great sounding trip planned for September when he and his girlfriend would drive their “new” motorhome up to Bozeman, Montana and then down to Prescott, Arizona before making their way back up to Nevada. Three weeks on the road visiting friends and family – I know all that land well and I was almost as excited for Leon and his lady as he was. Then again, I had my own little road trip coming up in just a few days from Phoenix up to Denver followed by another four weeks later from Phoenix up to Salt Lake City. But first I had to get to San Francisco, fly down to Burbank, rail up to Seattle and then fly up to Fairbanks and back before continuing on down to Phoenix to pick up my car. Such is my life…

Leon and I had a good time talking and trading stories. From my perspective, I don’t mind sharing my bottle because I truly enjoy the social discourse that accompanies a good bottle of whatever enjoyed amongst intelligent, well-traveled people. Additionally, the economics can’t be beat. A 750ml bottle of JD runs about $28.00 USD, $30.00 with tax. Were we to purchase 50ml airline style minis downstairs from the café, we’d be paying $8.00 each (including tip). Even sharing a half bottle of Jack (about 4 drinks each unless you pour the size I do) would end up costing about $60.00 or $30.00 each. And best of all - by the time I called it a night - I still had a half bottle left.