If we are talking about premium cabins and premium experiences, then the food and wine should be commented on. They are an integral part of the experience. Apart from in the USA, and away from NYC and SF, I cannot remember when I last saw someone dining in a fine restaurant and drinking Coke. The wine is part of the meal and complements the food.
Having said that, some here seem to be label driven rather than flavour driven and I would absolutely agree that you don't need to pay much to get good wine. £10 a bottle will buy you a delicious wine from an excellent producer but in a less well known region.
The worst part of wines on planes is exemplified by UA's absurd business class "flights" of wine. Indifferent wines with no points of comparison and not chosen to complement the food.