VivoPerLei

To me it reads like an overly snarky diatribe some wannabe critic would leave on TA. Hard to believe that would appear in a respectable publication.

Here is a real review of the same restaurant that touches on the important things like the sourcing of the ingredients, the inventiveness of the chef, the flavor combinations, the technique, the plating, etc.

https://www.andyhayler.com/restaurant/cinq