trvingfool and Flyingmama have got this exactly right. If you want a luxury cruise experience, great, but in that case DON'T go to Alaska. We went quite a few years ago with Lindblad (Special Expeditions), and it was basically a wildlife safari. There was not a set itinerary, except for stopping in Petersburg (our "big" port!) midway through so the crew could do the ship's laundry. Otherwise, we went to gorgeous uninhabited islands for hikes and bird-watching, sometimes with picnics on the beach. While sailing, one crew member would be on the bridge with binoc's, and if whales were spotted, we'd head in that direction. No hordes of people, no tourist-y places, just up close and personal with humpbacks, orcas, birds, and glaciers. Also, the food was fantastic---often it was fish that had been pulled out of the water that day (and I am a bona fide food snob). I think either Fodor or Frommer has a guide that lists small ship operators. If you want to cruise in Alaska, you owe it to yourself to look into these.