Perche thank you for your insight, amazingly spot-on for someone not living in the city, but actually living the city.
Many good points on your part.

Naples always had and always will have plenty of unsolved issues, to the point Napoletani are so used to them that eventually feel homey.

After all we just love to whine and complain but at the end of the day unwilling to change things.

Tomasi di Lampedusa and Il Gattopardo are quintessentially Italians for a reason

Agree re taxi drivers.

Never seen in any part of the world drivers so shady and cars so battered, and since the national sport is to fraud insurance companies - pocketing the refunds without actually repair the car - you can easily understand why.
And this applies not only to taxi drivers.

I fully trust you when you say understanding their Italian is difficult. I can guarantee it’s difficult for me as well. Apparently the civilization of that category struggles to catch up with decent standards.
Best thing to do is avoiding them, but since we don’t have Uber I see that at times may be the only choice. In this case a fixed fare agreed upon entering is the right thing to do.

From the airport there is fixed fares table with routing to city center and all the major regional touristic locations.
A good move from the NAP management for the peace of mind of all visitors:

http://www.aeroportodinapoli.it/on-arrival/by-taxi

Pizza:

besides the usual suspects, recently got the opportunity to discover Pellone.
It’s in via Nazionale, nearby Central and Garibaldi railway stations.

Patrons are mostly locals, since the area is quite off the beaten streets and frankly not ideal after dark.
But it’s adjacent the Centro Direzionale (the business district of Naples) and happened to be there last week and finally wanted to give a try to this much praised pizza venue.

The pizza is awesome, maybe just half notch below Sorbillo, but what stood out was the size: enormous.
I mean, a mammoth. I think was like a truck wheel.
Had to share it with a colleague but the 4 of us managed to gulp down only 3 pizze.
This makes Pellone unsuited for an evening dine, unless you wanna experience night visions.
Which paired with the dodginess of the area is a win-win.