Wow. Amazing trip report, really motivates me to visit. My grandmother was an Italian born in Asmara, and she spent her early life there up until early teens, when they moved back to Genova. I heard so many stories growing up, and she was always disappointed that she couldn't go back and visit, with Eritrea being at war for most of the time I'd been alive.
Can you tell me about general safety? I'm probably not going to bring my 4 year old there, but how did you feel in general?