April 8, 2004
Edmonton to Vancouver
ViaRail Canada First Class
“The Canadian” Car 121 Berth 2
855a-750a

Once upon a time, Edmonton’s train station was located in the heart of downtown – where a train station ought to be. Although I never did actually see the old station, I can only imagine that it had to be more impressive than the architecturally uninspired structure that now serves as the ViaRail station. Unfortunately, it was decided that the land upon which the old station sat could be put to better - read more profitable - uses. Sadly, this is an increasingly common scenario in many North American cities as train travel continues to lose much of its luster and business against the growing availability of faster and more affordable transportation options.

Still, for those of us who still like getting there as much as being there, ViaRail’s world famous streamliner The Canadian allows one the opportunity to get there in style.

Originally operated by the Canadian Pacific Railway, The Canadian got its start back in 1955, not long after the introduction of brand new American built stainless steel cars manufactured by the Budd Company, out of Red Lion, PA. One of the principal attractions of these new cars was the innovative placement a glass dome atop the roof of some cars. In fact, the inspiration for the dome car came from an executive of General Motor’s diesel locomotive manufacturing division while he was riding in the cab of one of his new diesels through Colorado’s colorful Glenwood Canyon.

My first ride in a dome car came as a kid traveling up to Glenwood Springs aboard the California Zephyr, which sported no less than five domes. The dome was accessed via a small stairway and offered 24 seats under the glass, six rows of 2-2. The view was forward and above as well as to the sides, perfect for viewing the mountains above and around us as we climbed from Denver up into the Rockies. After crossing under the Continental Divide via the Moffat Tunnel, we then followed the Colorado River from close to its source at Grand Lake through Gore and Glenwood Canyons. It was an unforgettable ride and I’ve had a penchant for dome cars and the trains that offer them (Domeliners) ever since. Interestingly, the dome-lounge-observation-sleepers purchased by the Canadian Pacific were constructed on the plans of the 1949 California Zephyr tail cars, to which they are virtually identical.

Two years ago, I rode ViaRail’s streamliner The Ocean between Truro, Nova Scotia and Montreal, Quebec. It also featured the dome observation lounge and after that trip, I knew I’d have to ride The Canadian sooner than later.

Although the original route of The Canadian took it past beautiful Lake Louise and down through Banff, in 1990 the train was assigned a more northerly routing along the Canadian National Railway line through Jasper and Kamloops. Though not quite as spectacular as the Lake Louise routing, the current journey still offers plenty of world class scenery that few railroads can match. Add to this the beautifully restored stainless steel rolling stock from the original Canadian and you’ve got one of the finest railroad experiences in the world.

It’s worth noting that although the cars will turn fifty years old next year, they’ve been upgraded to offer modern amenities. For example, steam heat has been replaced by electric heat, huge water tanks have replaced the cumbersome steam pipes allowing for showers in all the First Class cars, and the kitchen incorporates all the latest gadgetry to better produce some of the best meals on the rails.

I’d originally purchased an Economy Class seat on this train. Based upon the funds I had available at the time, spending the extra $200.00 required to purchase a berth in the First Class section just didn’t seem fiscally prudent. Thanks to British Airways generous cash compensation of $1,400.00 as a result of my having accepted a bump off an oversold LA to London flight last month, I was now in possession of a First Class ticket entitling me to an upper berth. First Class also entitles me to complimentary meals in the dining car and access to the Park Car, the beautiful tapered end dome observation lounge at the rear of the train.

My Economy Class ticket between Edmonton and Vancouver cost $187.00 CDN. By contrast, a roomette would have cost me $610.00 CDN. My upper berth cost $407.00 CDN. A lower berth is $70.00 more so I reckon I saved beer money just by climbing up a short ladder to crawl into bed later tonight.

I’ve been looking forward to a ride aboard this magnificent old train since the day I first ever saw a dome car. Now that that day had arrived, let’s head on out to the platform!

Pictures can be found HERE