4. Lux South Ari Atoll - part 1 (the hotel)
Finally we landed, and despite the allure of it all it was easy to miss that it takes three flights to get there. Flying from Johannesburg rubs salt into the wound, as you basically fly in a big circle. It was really hot and humid in maldives - not as bad as Dubai but close to it. Sometimes it was really great just to fall into the pool or the sea, or enter an airconditioned room for some relief. It's fantastic weather but it takes a few days to get used to it, and to your camera and glasses fogging up whenever you exit your room.
The pier
Maldives is one of the most expensive places we have been to in the world. Apart from some selected fresh produce, almost everything is imported and they make you pay for it. Using our local wines as a standard, the markups are astronomical. You also pay upwards of 25% tax on everything, plus VAT and all sorts of tourism taxes. For this reason we went for the all-inclusive option which would classically be considered a rip off, but delivered peace of mind for the whole holiday... but more on that later.
Staff welcoming us at the pier.
Welcome drinks.
Reception atrium
After being welcomed by the staff we checked in with our personal agent and were given a private tour of the island. Lux is on an island with a circumference of 4km, and while most people take the regular golf buggies everywhere, we opted to hire bicycles to do so, or to walk. The bikes hire for $5 a day and while a minority of people do so, we found them to be a hidden gem.
We opted for a romantic pool villa, which as you would expect is on stilts in the ocean. Classically Maldives, but also compulsory for a first time visitor in my opinion. The bedroom is very beautiful as it comes with a large king bed, small lounge, double shower, closet and outdoor balcony with a rim flow pool. Lower end accommodation includes a water villa that includes a bath instead of a shower and no pool, and a beach villa. Higher end accommodation includes villas that also have a bath tub and more floor space as well as a big separate lounge. There is also a presidential suite.
There are steps running into the sea, and we used them once or twice but the sea is only about 30cm deep there and there's basically only sand - so for wildlife and other niceties we went to other parts of island. The place is really ravaged by the weather and maintenance of the hotel takes place daily to prevent rusting and general destruction by all the humidity and salt.
The service on the island is really good with friendly staff who make up your room when they see you head out to breakfast or dinner, with a nightly turndown service. The staff are also very creative with your towels when you head out ...
We then started to explore. As there was no map to be found this had to be a journey of self discovery.
The East Bar
The red telephone booth - free international calls 24/7 if you want to phone someone.
The daily fresh coconut pit stop
On the main road between the two side of the island is a daily treasure trove of 'messages in bottles' - classic bottles that were supposedly thrown into the sea and washed up. If you find them you can claim the gift inside - anything from drinks to clothing to whale shark tours. They're limited to one per guest per stay to keep it fair, but many guests hoarded theirs' to see which one was the best and to cash it in later.
The Veli pool - there are many pools and bars everywhere.
Nets over the water to lie on and watch the sunset above and the sea life below. Such a great place especially when they bring you drinks there.
Senses pool - this was our favourite. Despite the fact that the hotel was 60% full, it never felt like it and I suspect even at full capacity it would feel spacious and not congested.
The hotel really is a wonderful haven to relax and do what you want to each day. The only time it can be busy is at the restaurants during meal times, but they provide you with a reservation for that reason. Other than that, we all had a great deal of freedom and personal space on such a large island. There are hundreds of meters of powdery beach and the ocean is shallow for 300m out to sea. It's remarkable and surreal.