Regarding the Onsen - the trip to Hakone was for the ryokan/onsen experience, but also to see Mt Fuji. If a ryokan in Yudanaka/Shibu onsen or Unazuki onsen would be a better option, might you be able to compare/contrast to Hakone? Am starting the research myself but not coming up with much!

Jib - thanks for the advice! Booked in Kyoto and Tokyo already, trying to work out the rest of it as we speak :-)