Flying in to Male in the Maldives
A doctor will tell you that if your heart stops, you’re dead. But it seems to me everyone’s heart will pause for several seconds as you fly in over the Maldives, it’s breathtaking. The colors, the coral reefs, the resorts.
The Maldives is a picture perfect place to see, but it is a 30-foot country, everything looks ok, even impressive, until you get within 30 feet of it. Then you see that the parts don’t fit terribly well. It’s really on the edge of eternity.
Male, itself is a terribly small island probably no more than ¾ of a mile by 1 ¼ miles. The traffic is heavy and every driver on the road seems to be driving for the very first time.
I can’t for the life of me understand why there are even cars on the Island. Male is one of the few places on earth I was careful on the streets even Vietnam was easier to navigate.
Taxi drivers wanted to see how close they could come to you; maybe they really were trying to run me down. I didn’t have time to ask. They looked like human ornaments in cars barreling towards you a break neck speed.
Every 3rd car was a taxi. Business couldn’t be good. I couldn’t find any parking garages around the homes but lots of parking spaces through the town, they must drive all day and night for something to do.
Shopping is expensive and all the art, T-shirts, trinkets, and other junk was either made in Sri Lanka, Indonesia or china and imported. I guess there just isn’t room to manufacture any handcrafts on the Island. Food in Male was excellent. Great seafood and Indian cuisine and very reasonably priced.
As I said, the Island is very small and you can walk around it in less than 1 to 2 hours stopping several times. The reason I mention this again is that you would think for such a small place one would know every street and establishment on the Island. When asking several people where the Central Hotel was only 1 in about 15 knew. It was in the center of the Island [town]. That was handy. I think they have lost their sense of adventure there, I don’t know what they do with all the time they have on their hands. It certainly isn’t checking out the neighborhood.
Male is 100% Muslim and with that came some surprises. There is no amber bottles behind any bars, in fact there are no bars. The upside and downside depending on you, is that there are no alibis for the forgetfulness that sometimes accompanies the amber liquids that are held inside the bottles. Your forgetfulness is your own demise.
When it’s time to pray they come into the streets with their carpets and kneel down. At first, I thought a riot had happened. Everyone was rushing onto the street. The first call to prayer is at 5 am. They are quite modern now with taped voice recordings to announce it around town, rather than someone straining their voices 5 times a day.
The unemployed and employed have raised indolence to Olympian heights in Male. With an Island stocked to its rafters with women and lazy men, no nightlife or amber to help you forget, you go to bed early and get up early to pray. Some say, you can make God laugh here—by telling him your plans 5 times a day.
You seem to glance at your watch out of habit 100 times a day for something to do and immediately forget what the time is. You’re engulfed in a drama without an audience or anywhere to go. Did the sun in fact rise this morning, or was it setting this evening? Who would know when every day is the same? It’s a country bloated in monotony from one Island to another. You walk past homes and offices that house mostly misery and boredom. The whole place had a feel and aura about as warm as a cold sore.
By contrast, United States is a country of Home Depot, Staples, Macy’s, Sears, the Keg, Dave and Busters—a country that has united in entertainment from one coast and boarder to another. On the down side, you can see neighborhoods full of rubble and poverty without a social system or religion to help the less fortunate. I never saw this in the Maldives.
March is not the month to go to the Maldives; it’s so hot and humid. The water is about 85 degrees or warmer, swimming in the bathtub is only fun for so long, and then you’re all wrinkled up and too sweaty to lie in the sun. Your only respite is in an air-conditioned room.
In the morning, the deep black sky over the ocean seems to catch on fire. It starts at a point in the Eastern Indian Ocean and spills its way along the horizon, like a liquid flame. The temperature climbs rapidly as daybreak spreads along the Island and into the sky. The reds soften to orange, then yellow, and the deep blue of dawn becomes the hot blue of day. The temperature is so hot and humid the sky is wet.
While I like a little heat and relaxation, I found that the Maldives was too much of a good thing. If you’re were on a honeymoon and wanted to stay in an air-conditioned room for a week or two you might miss the everyday boredom and humidity. If you’re not on a honeymoon…forget a 7-10 day holiday.
While the purpose of going away is for a change, in fact, I become a little restless on Islands or anything or anywhere that is repetitive. You can only stay in the sun for a limited amount of time and read so many books and watch so many sunsets or sunrises. I guess I have forgotten my youth and falling in love or something close to that.
On the cost side, Male is relatively normal, however step on an Island and you and your money are held hostage. Most boat transfers to nearby Islands cost a minimum of $75 and $200 for air taxi each way. Rooms generally start in the low end around $200 a day but good accommodations are nearer $1000 a day. Most resorts have full board, half-board, or breakfast only included. Make sure you know what you have in your package and if transfers to and from the Island are included.
Over all, there are basically two types of people who travel to Islands, those who want a rest and those that are looking for an adventure. The Maldives is for a rest. Yes, I know it’s one of the greatest places for diving, but how much diving can you do every day? After all, even an air tank only last so long.
Apart from the majestic scenery coming in, the next best thing was watching the scenery as I departed.
Summary
Picture card perfect
Stunning views
Crystal clear waters with green to light blue hues
Great place for a rest for a day or two 1 to 2 weeks would kill me
Once you’ve walked any Island there’s not much else to do
Should be on a honeymoon and want to spend a lot of time indoors
Forget buying gifts, nothing is made there
Watch out for taxi drivers
Bring lots of books
Make sure you know what your trip covers. I.e. transportation, food.
Alcohol is not allowed, only in some of the resorts check pricing
Importation of alcohol is prohibited, so if you drink go somewhere else
Try another Island like the Caribbean, Australia (it’s a big island) Hawaii, less expensive, more to do.
That’s it.
Robert