I believe some French multi-star restaurants serve a food which is a "little complicated", a little too much show!
I have eaten only in a few 2/3 star restaurants. One which was not top, was "Crocodile" in Strasbourg, then a 3 star, now a 2 star.
A friend of mine, he is a restaurant critique, believes that the one in Illhaeusern/Alsace (Haeberlin) is top notch. I have not tried it.

[This message has been edited by USAFAN (edited Feb 15, 2004).]