Some notes on two restaurants at the Bellagio, where we stayed. We had Saturday 8:30 reservations at Olives and showed up at 8:00. Not expecting to be seated early, I asked the hostess what our chances were and would we have a chance at a window table? The early twenties hostess was completely dismissive and rude and told us to come back and take our chances--she appeared to be marking time in between high school and the strip clubs. For what it's worth, we were both very well dressed--little black dress on her/ slacks and cashmere jacket from Barneys on me respectively.

In disgust, we left to have a drink at the Fontana Lounge (great cocktail selection), which is next to the two Le Cirque restaurants. The menu for Osteria del Circo (the somewhat more casual Tuscan offshoot) looked great, so we stuck our head in and asked about the possibility of a table. The front of the house was manned by a professional Maitre D' who said to come back at 9:00. I thanked him; said that we would like a non-smoking table "if possible" and joked that, "I won't be so gauche as to push my luck and ask for a window table." We returned at 8:55 waited less than ten minutes and were taken through the still crowded restaurant to a window table overlooking the fountains, had an outstanding meal with professional service. This is now my favorite restaurant in Vegas!

Also, avoid the Palms Casino AT ALL COSTS--it is cheap and trashy to say the least and overrun with drunken frat boys and cheesy 40 year old women dressed up like Britney Spears--I saw enough exposed tummy rolls in my five minutes to last a lifetime! Went there after dinner to see what the hype is about and quickly turned around and caught a cab to the Venetian. There, we went to the Jack's Velvet Lounge (you need to go up the stairs above the rather stark looking restaurant part), which was very cool: small dancefloor, lots of plush red sofas and an outdoor balconey overlooking the strip. The V-Bar was also very restrained and classy.