<font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" size="2"> For more than a decade, as the rest of Miami's "Mango Gang" of chefs (Douglas Rodriguez, Mark Militello, and Allen Susser) parlayed their Hispanic-influenced New World cuisine into restaurant empires and product marketing, Norman Van Aken resisted such expansion. While he did write several cookbooks in those years, Norman's in Coral Gables remained the only venue where diners could sample Van Aken's creations prepared under the master's control.

Hence a second Van Aken outlet, Mundo, scheduled to open at the Village of Merrick Park in early spring 2003, was eagerly anticipated. Finally unveiled in late January 2004 (the Gables surely has the world's slowest, pickiest building-permit bureaucracy), it has been worth the wait.

Steak tartare was outstanding, the raw beef not finely ground but left slightly chunky for more interesting texture. Spicing was a bit hotter than usual, leaving a pleasant tingly aftertaste that was cleverly countered by a refreshing tomato/cilantro salsa on toast rounds.

Even if fancified versions of beloved classics aren't normally to your liking, don't hesitate to try Mundo's Cuban sandwich. The ham was good quality, the pork was among the best I've had in town, and the upgrades -- Gouda cheese and key lime mustard -- were improvements on the standard -- honest.

Rhum-painted grouper was the only transfer from Norman's I noticed on the menu. But fans of Norman's signature roast pork Havana will be pleased with Mundo's equally succulent and juicy maple-cured, spice-rubbed pork chop. On the side were three elegant little rolls of sliced sweet potato, each stuffed with a different complementary flavor: currant, almond, and blue cheese.

To mop up whatever you order, a basket of roti cooked in Mundo's wood oven is three dollars. Is the warm puffy flatbread, with a bowl of good green olive oil and balsamic vinegar for dunking, worth the extra bucks? Yes.

The two desserts I sampled were also fabulous: guava cream cheese bread pudding and toffee walnut bars. Espresso foam and a brilliant drizzle of lemon made the latter seem like fun kid food all grown up.

Mundo
Village of Merrick Park, 325 San Lorenzo Ave #1325, Coral Gables
305-442-6787
Open Monday through Saturday 11:30 a.m. to 10:00 p.m. (Thursday till 10:30 p.m.; Friday and Saturday till 11:00 p.m.); light menu between 3:00 and 6:00 p.m. Market closes at 7:00 p.m.
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