<font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" size="2">Tap Tap, South Beach's only Haitian restaurant, has exhibited precipitous ups and downs since opening on Fifth Street nine years ago. What started out as a fun, funky, crowded joint with enchanting island fare turned into a not-so-happening joint with not-so-enchanting fare. Then the place enjoyed an upward tick, followed by another downhill run. Now, I am pleased to report, Tap Tap is back on top.

Improved cuisine is key to Tap Tap's comeback. Salad lambi, lime-marinated cubes of conch keenly piquant with jalapeño peppers, is an invigorating beginning to hearty main courses, as is a smoothly spicy, allspice-flecked pumpkin soup with cabbage and chayote. The only other appetizer choices on this little menu are malanga or conch fritters, and grilled tidbits of goat with a peppery watercress dipping sauce. Starters run from $2.95-$3.95, entrées from $5.95 (chicken stew) to $13.95 (whole fish in lime sauce) -- which might cause you to take a quick glance out the window to make certain you're still in South Beach, and may also tempt you to supplement your start with one of three salads -- avocado and tomato dressed in olive oil and lime, beets with potatoes, hard-boiled egg and watercress, and "salad Tap Tap," a bright, refreshing blend of mango and carrots over watercress and other mixed greens tossed in honey mustard dressing ($3.95).</font>