Anyone care to corroborate this NYT review from earlier this year?

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Mas


Calling his cooking ''nueva cocina Latina,'' the executive chef John Manion is inspired by Latin America without trying to reproduce its culinary traditions. His golden fried empanada oozes a rich filling of wild mushrooms and goat cheese. Served with walnuts and frisée with balsamic reduction, it could be nueva California. But our helpful Argentine waitress proudly points out to my wife, Carol, and I and two friends that it's still Argentine at heart. Mr. Manion's daily ceviche that night was citrus-marinated marlin and shrimp mixed with grilled pineapple and habanero chili in dark rum and coconut milk, another unusual combination that I relished.

A fine entree of seared yellowfin tuna with yucca fries is mantled with the herbal, garlicky chimichurri that is as ubiquitous in Argentina as ketchup is here. A lovely presentation of similar-size slices of rare lamb loin, fingerling potatoes and baby eggplant is spruced with chili piquillo salsa; luxuriant ancho-chili rubbed chicken breast shines alongside tangy mustard greens and lunas de calabaza, half moon pumpkin-filled dumplings reminiscent of pumpkin ravioli. A zesty Seghesio Sonoma County zinfandel 2000 ($32) suits the food nicely.

For dessert, the inevitably soothing vanilla flan gets a welcome boost from Mandarin orange syrup instead of the usual caramel. But my allegiance goes to the moist cashew buttermilk cake with vanilla-soaked pears.

Mas is very noisy when busy, which is the rule not long after doors open nightly. The loft-look space is dark and stylish, sporting earth-toned sponged walls where they aren't exposed brick. The bar is a major purveyor of Cuban mojitos and Brazilian caipirinhas, but after dinner I savored the spice and citrus flavors of a single-village mescal from Santo Domingo Albarradas.

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