Just came back from Bali.
Do. Not. Drive there yourself, unless you have experience driving in a sea of motorbikes. If you are used to a very regulated traffic situation where you normally drive, Bali would be maddening as nobody follows any sign/rule/convention. We had a great driver for a whole day for 650k IDR, about 50 USD. It's not worth the stress to drive yourself.
I was actually shocked how much traffic congestion had grown since I last visited 5 years ago.