As the Faithful travel to Mecca, aficionados of beef barbecue travel to Lockhart, TX, where there are several Sacred Places where slow smoked, dry rubbed (if for a few ultra-orthodox, no more than S&P) brisket is the all and end all of BBQ. Beef ribs are harder to find done well, but when managed carefully can be moist and juicy area treat.

Sauce? Really good Barbecue needs none, but a thin blend of drippings and stock accentuated by one or more of the dried or smoked chiles (even chipotle has crept into the larder). If resorting to mustard, ketchup or vinegar, they should be served "on the side" so that the faint-hearted can blend their own crude adulterants.

Sugar? Didn't your dentist tell you about sugar? We're not talking pig here, and even then those of us trained in the tropics might substitute pineapple.