Thanks for one of the best TR's I've seen here! You really captured the human aspect of the area, IMO.

I last travelled to Syria in 2012, just before the serious troubles kicked off (there were just protests at the time), and Erbil in nothern Iraq shortly afterwards. Fascinating region with extremely hospitable people.

I'm planning to return to the same area soon. May I be so indiscreet as to ask what kind of expenses you had for the trip, as in fixer and on-the-ground expenses? I'm just a tourist who likes to see the things up-front for myself, so I don't have a big professional budget that the news fixers charge, and I'm wondering if you were able to find anything more suited towards private travellers. Thanks!