Part 2 – Sighetu Marmației and the Merry Cemetery
Hotel: Vila Royal, €25 per night incl. Breakfast

It was still early in the morning when my train pulled into the little station of Sighetu Marmației (locals often shorten the town name to just Sighet). After a short 10 minute walk, I found my hotel, conveniently located just at the edge of the central square above a small café. While the reception desk didn’t expect me this early (I originally planned to take a later train, but as it only had seats available and no beds, I was forced to go for the earlier train), they were very accommodating at this early hour. They put me into an other room than originally planned, and granted me early check-in. Score! I would be OK with leaving my luggage and going out to explore town and drinking a coffee, but a little nap and a refreshing shower were much welcomed!




My room at Vila Royal, and a view over the town centre.

The room was perfectly acceptable, a comfy bed, clean, and even a nice view over the town centre. Very good value for money, and it being a provincial outpost, it’s about the general standard for accommodation you can find in the area. After the nap/shower, I went out for a coffee and pastry, and I was ready for an afternoon of sightseeing!

For a bit of background information, Maramures is known as being the most traditional part of Romania. A rich folk culture, a traditional countryside where many people still work with scythes and horse carriages, and a gorgeous scenery ranging from rolling hills to beautiful mountains. Last summer, I already explored the eastern part of the region, doing some hikes around Borşa, and taking the famous Mocănița steam train. In this part, the sights would be more cultural: some monasteries and a museum or two.





First and second picture: lovely scenery on a hike around Borşa. Third picture: relaxing at a swimming pool in Vişeu de Sus. Fourth picture: the Mocănița steam train, originally used for transporting wood/woodcutters up the river valley.

Alas, enough pictures from last summer, back to now: the plan for today was to visit the Merry Cemetery in the nearby town of Săpânța, just 20km or so out of Sighet. As there is no public transport as to speak of besides long distance buses, the only options are renting a car, negotiating a taxi for an hour or two, or hitchhiking. The latter option, which I chose, is more easy and common than it sounds. Many local people do it, and pick up hitchhikers, in rural Romanian areas. It’s a kind of informal public transport system. Sometimes they expect you to pay a small fee (5 lei, around €1), but many a local easily will drive you along for free, flatly refusing any money. Within 5 minutes of waiting at the main road of town, on driver was willing to take me to the village for a few lei.

The Merry Cemetery is famous throughout Romania for it’s beautifully painted and decorates crosses, a prime example of traditional folk art which makes Maramures such a special place. Each cross depicts and tells the story of the deceased: their profession, family and things that were dear to them. It’s a lovely place to stroll around for a while! Also in town, is a nice wooden monastery to visit.

After spending an hour or two in the small village, I walked back to the main road and got myself a ride back to Sighet in just a minute. The talkative driver wouldn’t accept any money for the ride on dropping me off!


The main road running through Săpânța. Note the horse-drawn carriage, still fairly common for the more faraway rural parts of Romania.



The merry cemetery. Note for example the details of the 2nd picture: the cross on the right belongs to a man who worked as a carpenter!