Paris in winter isn't for everyone, but I do enjoy it there in the off season. Been three times, once in November and twice in January. The weather is quite chilly, at least compared to Los Angeles, but snow is pretty rare. In fact, snow is really a pain in the arse because the whole city shuts down and the people run around like it is armageddon or something. The Metro usually shuts down as well, and the poor Parisians come out in their skiwear like it is 40 below. It *will* rain, though. Usually not terribly hard, but it will rain. Mmmm....temp about 45F-55F in the day, and about 10 degrees less at night.

The city in winter is tourist free. Things that you will wait for hours to get into during the summer will take about 10 minutes. The Louvre and Orsay are delightful respites from the chill, and are empty enough to enjoy. Restaurants are very comfortable, warm, and usually busy. Needless to say, there is no street dining in winter.

Days are short, and the light factor is probably at 50%. Expect most or all of your pictures to have a cold, grey tint to them. Stores will close a little earlier than in the summer, but not too much. Berthillon is indeed one of life's not-so-simple pleasures, though the hours are very limited. Go to the actual shop on the Ile St Louis, not to one of the restaurants hawking the stuff. Isn't the same. As lalala said, the city does like Christmas a lot, and it looks like one big picture postcard (with a grey tint, of course). Make a trip to the 7th (my fav arr.) and go by Au Bon Marche and its picture windows. The Champs Elysees is overboard, and accordingly fun to stroll. Everyone talks about Paris in springtime. Paris to me is walking from the Concorde to the Arc at Christmas time. The trees are lit, people are snuggling close to each other, things are quiet and peaceful, and for a fleeting moment, everything is right in the world.