23:30 came far too soon with less than two hours of sleep in the bank. The porters (not just ours) seemed like they were having a gay old time throughout the night, although that was likely just my perception. Regardless I was fully awake and ready to see just how difficult this climb could be. We had about 4000 feet in elevation to climb (pole, pole of course) and up until this point I had felt zero ill effects of the elevation. As I had slept with the majority of my cold weather gear on, I simply activated a pair of hand warmers, and put on my boots and coat before venturing outside. Other than feeling like the Michelin Man in a wrestling singlet, I was warm as could be. There was a strange feel about the morning as everyone bobbed around with their headlights under the star-lit sky.
I wasn’t disappointed, but breakfast was a bit of a shocker. Waiting in the dining tent were come cookies and tea. More than filling after last night’s carb buffet.
Biscuits and tea
That arrow should just point straight up
A few minutes behind schedule (not that it really mattered) we headed off into the darkness at 12:10. A few groups had left already and some were following close behind. No more than 100m from camp was Kili’s first victim. I’m sure everyone who walked by and gawked at his queasy demeanor didn’t boost his self-esteem, but at this point it was every man for himself. So we pressed on. Finally at 1:30 we reached our first somewhat significant milestone. Williams Point marks 5000m (16404’). It wasn’t exactly a stopping point so I snapped a photo of the dilapidated sign and kept on trekking.
May as well say keeping going
The first two hours were actually really bright, as the nearly full moon hadn’t set beyond the upper most crest of the mountain. No one (except a few rude folks) really needed their headlight at this point. Behind us was an enchanting view of Mawenzi and the horizon, which I eagerly anticipated the sunrise to peak out from below any minute. But it never came. While our pace seemed dreadfully slow we were only passed by one group who were chugging along at an unsustainable pace. Needless to say we passed them for good when they took an extend break shortly after.
Headlamps
Sadly taking photos was very challenging as I never wanted to completely stop moving and bringing a tripod was out of the question. Although I would absolutely bring a tripod and different lens if I ever summit again, even at the risk of not summiting. A time-lapse of the horizon would be mesmerizing. One other challenge on the first half of the climb to Gilman’s Point was crossing the scree. When you descend you simply run down the loose rock in a mostly straight path, but ascending requires countless switchbacks. Each switchback had to cross the sandy loose scree at a somewhat steep angle and I had to be cautious with each step I took.
Mawenzi in the dark
At 2:00 we reached Hans Meyer Cave (5150m/16900’). Up until this point I had remained very warm and was drinking regularly enough from my HOT water to prevent the tube from freezing, but I could tell it was beginning to get cold if I went more than a few minutes without draining the exposed water. Beyond the scree zone we had entered the boulder forest (my name) portion of the climb. Much more exposed to the elements (specifically the wind) the cold crept up on us and I often needed my hands to find my way. There was no specific path, but just a route inches behind John as he slowly led us from one false summit to the next. It seemed like this went on for hours, mostly because it did, and eventually John told us “only four more.”
Moonset above Hans Meyer Cave
At long last as the clock struck 4:07 a big grin crossed my face as we reached Gilman’s Peak. While not the true summit, at 5685m (18652’) it was the moment at which I knew we would make it. Gilman’s is one of a few points atop Kilimanjaro which meet the trail that surrounds the crater and eventually leads to Uhuru Peak, our ultimate destination. We took a few obligatory (blurry) photos at this secondary summit before proceeding on the approximately one and a half hour trek to the true top of Africa.
Partial success
Checking the heartrate
The first half around the crater was actually rather easy and fortunately it was in the dark so I didn’t see some of the perilous drops off into the crater we were mere inches from. After 40 minutes we arrived at Stella Point (5756m/18885’) where the other routes join our trail to Uhuru Peak. The downside of reaching Stella is beyond that point you are completely exposed to the elements and the wind becomes chilling. Maybe five hours in the dark cold night contributed too, but I began to get a bit cold. My brother especially took notice and we pressed on for a small area with a break from the wind. For the first time all trip we decided to refuel and have a small snack. Of course I was too cool for school and ignored the advice about chewy foods and our gummy snacks were not the best choice in this situation. Nature also called which was a struggle of its own with four layers on and two sets of gloves.
Starting to feel that wind
Ice along the Mweka Trail to Uhuru Peak
First real break since Hans Meyer Cave
All of a sudden I looked back and saw the first hint of daybreak over the horizon which was a great motivator. There were not too many headlamps ahead of us at this point, but one set in particular kept getting closer and closer until it dawned on me that they were no longer moving and we were within sight of Uhuru. And there you have it, at 5:44 my brother and I reached the highest point in Africa.
Literally ran ahead to get this shot, bad idea!
I think that sign says go back down now
Obligatory hugs and high-fives were exchanged as we waited our turn to pose in front of the only proof of our Kilimanjaro triumph. The group of Americans who had speed control issues earlier reached shortly after and created a melee at the summit with everyone trying to have their photo taken at once. It didn’t help that it was still mostly dark and light was at a premium. My brother and I stood back and let them have their moment while I took some photos of my last sunrise in my 20’s. That few minutes just waiting in the elements really was cold. However, waiting was a bit of a blessing as more light allowed us to get a slightly better photo.
Congrats all around
Looking back down the ridge toward Stella and Gilman’s Point
Waiting our turn (maybe 25 reached the top, in busy season it can be more than 100)
A bit more light this time
Proof
Me too
With that, we began the hike back home. I had some birthday beers waiting for me. Leaving at 6:09 meant we spent 25 minutes at the true summit, which seems to be rather long by most accounts. Since the sun was now rising we got to enjoy some stunning views to the east as far as the eyes could see. The glaciers are simply inspiring with their sharp edges contrasting the ground below and sky above. All sorts of opinions (whether unfounded or not) exist on the remaining longevity of these marvels, but just like with the aerial photos of the Dead Sea, it’s hard to argue against their shrinking size. Some give them 15 years, others 50. With the sun just rising in the east (duh) the glaciers beyond Uhuru Peak (in the west) were mostly still shroud in darkness and the Northern Ice Field nor Furtwängler Glacier could hardly be seen. The Northern Ice Field is the largest of the remaining glaciers atop Kilimanjaro and once fed all of the other glaciers. One regret (in hindsight) was getting to the summit too early. I would have walked a bit slower had I known how dark it would be initially.
The walk back
As we continued down we saw some fantastic sights we completely missed as we climbed in darkness. A “mini” part of the Southern Ice Field was just a stone’s throw away and as we passed Stella Point we took photos in much better light. Before we knew it we were back at Gilman’s Point where we shed a few layers before going for a boulder dash and a scree run. Once we cleared the boulder forest we finally got to use those poles we lugged around for six days. I was a bit cautious at first but eventually got the hang of it and after a good workout and almost three hours later we were back at Kibo Hut! And it wasn’t even 9:00 yet. (8:51 to be exact)
A small piece of the Southern Ice Field
Victory!
Mount Meru beyond the glacier
Silhouettes of those still headed up
Mount Meru is not as high, but offers a much steeper ascent
West side of Rebmann Glacier
Close up of Rebmann Glacier
East side of Rebmann Glacier
Wide trail along the ridge
Here comes the sun
The trail home
Kodak moment
Last Rebmann view
Kibo Hut is within sight!
Good morning Mawenzi
Just about back at Stella Point
Stella Point
Most trekkers exit here
Mawenzi was awfully photogenic this morning
Back to the narrow trail
No hand rails
The ridge and trail to Uhuru
Rather large stalactites and stalagmites, well one of those
Northern Ice Fields from a distance
Approaching Gilman’s Point
Gilman’s
Beginning the boulder dash
Through the boulder forest
Kibo doesn’t seem to be getting any closer
Scree run time
Opps
Samuel slid down as if he had a snowboard under his boots
Photo doesn’t do the steepness justice
Missed that work of art on the way up, maybe glow in the dark paint next time
Surprisingly I wasn’t particularly hungry but lunch was served and I set out some clothes to dry before we had to pack up and continue on to Horombo Camp. Along the way we caught up with a pair of Kiwis who had also summited this morning but they were going to Mandara Hut to have a shorter last day. As we neared our camp it began to cloud over and eventually rained once we took shelter. Glad we didn’t have any farther to go today.
Never felt so good to be halfway complete
A toast to our success, sorry, that was lame
Someone should maybe suggest to make the potato soup on day one so you don’t have to carry them to 15000’
Watermelon that didn’t get touched
On the road to Horombo
Vegetation again!
Medevac helipad
Familiar terrain
I thought we were done stumbling on rocks
Kilimanjaro ambulance
A road?!
This camp was like no other we had visited. It housed three types of trekkers: 1) those like ourselves who had been
camping in relative seclusion, 2) those who took the Coca-Cola route and were returning from the summit and 3) those who were just on day two and had some long days ahead of them. In other words it was Nairobi while we had spent our first few nights in Pitcairn. Bit of a culture shock, but I was too tired to care. Popcorn and tea was served and before we had dinner my brother took a shower (such different amenities for those Coca-Cola folks) and I cleaned house in another game of Monopoly. One perk of this camp was most porters and guides stayed in huts, so it really muffled their noise. Not that I needed help falling asleep. What a great day!
Horombo Hut
How the other half live
Got mixed reviews on the hut life
One last popcorn
And so begins the last supper
Soup
Did someone say leftovers?!
I think so
Another win for the Wolf of Atlantic City before some much needed sleep
***
(Kibo-Gilman’s)
Distance: 2.47 mi, 3.98 km
Time 3:58:27
Camp Elevation: 18652’, 5685m
Average Pace: 1:36:20/mile
(Gilman’s-Uhuru Peak)
Distance: 1.33 mi, 2.14 km
Time 1:32:37
Camp Elevation: 19341’, 5895m
Average Pace: 1:09:00/mile
(Uhuru Peak-Kibo)
Distance: 3.37 mi, 5.42 km
Time 2:40:13
Average Pace: 47:33 min/mile
(Kibo-Horombo)
Distance: 5.95 mi, 9.58 km
Time 2:16:54
Camp Elevation: 12204’, 3720m
Average Pace: 23:01 min/mile
Daily Total
Distance: 13.12 mi, 21.11 km
Time 10:28:00
Hike to Uhuru Peak via Gilman’s Point and back
View from the West (above the Northern Ice Fields) looking toward Mawenzi; showing the hike from Gilman’s Point (red) along the ridge to Uhuru Peak (star)
Kibo to Horombo Hut
Overall progress