Day 3.

I had a long drive today, so instead of waiting for the hotel restaurant to open at 8am, I had some biscuits and yoghurt I had bought the previous day instead at 7am in my hotel room.


I then loaded up the Lada to begin the drive back to Yerevan in Armenia.


For the drive back I opted for a different route, heading north and visiting the 13th century Gandzasar monastery, then heading west through Kalbajar, over the Sotk Pass into Armenia, passing Lake Sevan before heading south-west for the final journey to Yerevan.


There was some heavy fog and wet road as I left Stepanakert.


A road-side sign for the Halo Trust for the clearance of cluster munitions left over from the Nagorno-Karabakh War. In the years following the war, the civilian population of Nagorno-Karabakh has suffered the world's highest per capita casualty rate from landmines and unexploded ordinance.


I took a detour to drive up to the mountain top Gandzasar monastery. First consecrated in 1240, the monastery holds relics believed to belong to St. John the Baptist and is supposedly the most important structure in Karabakh.


Back on the road again and the fog got a little worse before it got better.


Stopping to admire the view of the Tartar. Tartar is the left tributary of Kura, the largest river in Caucasus.


Stopping to refuel in a small town before heading further west to Kelbajar, the wild, mountainous region between Armenia and northern Karabakh.


On a cable bridge over the Tartar. Most of the population in Kelbajar before the Nagorno-Karabakh War were Muslim Kurdish farmers and herders.


Because the area is occupied Azerbaijan (i.e. not Nagorno-Karabakh) the region falls under a restricted military zone. I had read that a difficult-to-get travel permit was required, but luckily I was not stopped or questioned.


Although there is ongoing work to surface the road, the majority of the road in the area is unpaved. It was no problem at all though for my trusty Lada 4WD.


Behind a couple of other 4WD's on the drive west.


Climbing up the rough road of the Sotk Pass.


And back on sealed road again after crossing over back into Armenia.


Outside Surp Astvatsatsin church in the Armenian town of Vardenis. On the drive out of Vardenis, a silver sedan flashed its lights behind me. I thought he wanted to overtake me, so I slowed down and pulled to the right. He flashed his lights again so figured he wanted me to stop for some reason. After stopping on the side of the road, four guys dressed in blue jeans and black leather jackets got out and approached my car. I had been driving pretty cautiously but figured I might have broken some road rules. I opened my door and one of the guys flashed his police badge and asked where I was from. They only spoke basic English but I managed to tell them I was just a tourist coming from Karabakh and heading to Yerevan, and gave them my passport and car license when they asked. They were relatively friendly so I decided that being fully compliant and jovial was the best strategy.


They then said I had to come with them to the Police Station, and then one of the guys hopped in the front passenger seat of the Lada while we drove back into town with the other three guys following behind in the silver sedan. After about 500 metres down the road the policeman's phone rang and he told me to pull over. After talking on the phone for abit he said he wanted to look at my photo's so I handed him my camera and showed him how to click through them all. They loved the Kelbajar photo's, 'very beautiful!', although there was a military outpost in one of the shots so I had to delete it. They giggled when they saw the 'Policewomen' photo I took in Stepanakert but luckily I could keep it. I was a bit nervous with the Agdam photo's, but luckily they didn't mention anything about them though. They now said I was ok to leave, shook hands and wished me well on my drive to Yerevan!

Heading west again on to Yerevan.


Stopping to take in the view of Lake Sevan, the largest body of water in the Caucasus.


Just outside the town of Sevan, before driving on to the highway for the final 60 kilometres to Yerevan.


And back in the centre of Yerevan at about 3:30pm, where I met Hayk again to hand back over the keys to the Lada. Apart from a bit of extra mud, luckily it had no dings, scratches or dents from when I picked it up 2 days ago.


I then walked across the road to the Republica Hotel for my one night stay in Yerevan. $95 a night including breakfast and complimentary welcome hot chocolate.


My room with Queen sized bed on the fifth floor.


And complimentary meringues. The hotel was right in the middle of Yerevan, so after freshening up, I went out to explore some of the city.


Coffee shop.


Crossing.


Republic Square with the National Gallery and History Museum building.


School kids.


Auburn.


Underpass.


Leapfrog.


For dinner I headed to Anoush, rated one of the best restaurants in Yerevan. For the starter I had stuffed Qufta, made with ground beef, bulgur, onion & spices.


And for the main I had the Nazani chicken stuffed with pork basturma with sundried barberry, bulgur, herbs, onions and cooked with red wine.


And for dessert, the Kilikia, made with green pistachio, honey, mascarpone and cream. A great taste of Armenian cuisine and the total bill was $17 so excellent value too.



Day 4.

After an early morning run around Yerevan, I headed down stairs to have breakfast.


I then headed out for a walk to see some more of the city.


First stop was the Yerevan Vernissage (French for an art exhibition preview).


The markets are open in the weekends, and had different types of traditional Armenian art works. Some of the paintings were kitschy, others were quite conventional, and some were quite beautiful.


As well as artwork there were shoes, household goods and as well as souvenirs.


I stopped at this stall to buy a few Armenian souvenirs to take home.


Clothes.


Skates.


I then walked through the city and headed toward Tsitsernakaberd.


The Ararat Brandy factory.


After a 4 kilometre uphill walk I finally made it to Tsitsernakaberd, the Armenian Genocide memorial complex. The 44-meter stele symbolises the national rebirth of Armenians.


And inside the Armenian Genocide Museum-Institute. The museum had recently been refurbished, and gave a graphic, confronting and sober presentation of the systematic efforts of the Ottoman government to deport and exterminate the Armenian population from Anatolia.


The various atrocities included death marches, mass burnings, sexual slavery, rape, beheadings, mass drownings, morphine overdose and toxic gas. The genocide of the Armenian community in Turkey was the 20th century's first example of 'ethnic cleansing' on a massive scale, and its success in virtually eliminating the Armenian population in Anatolia was a key inspiration for Hitler.


Armenians forming up to spell 'America, we thank you'. American Near East Relief was founded in 1915 by an act of US Congress in response to reports of governmental atrocities against Ottoman Armenians, and went on to organise the world's first large-scale, modern humanitarian project for the Armenian Genocide.


The eternal flame dedicated to the 1.5 million Armenians killed during the genocide. The twelve slabs that surround the flame represent the twelve lost provinces in present-day Turkey.


The Karen Demirchyan Sports and Concerts Complex, a very interesting example of 1980's Soviet architecture.


I then walked to Barekamutyun metro station to catch a ride back into the centre of Yerevan.


There were police and no photography signs everywhere but I tried to be discrete.


I stayed on for four stops until Zoravar Andranik Station back in the city.


Saint Gregory the Illuminator Cathedral. Completed in 2001, it is the world's largest Armenian Cathedral.


It was about 1pm so I headed to Black Angus Yerevan for lunch.


A cappuccino and 'Black Angus' biscuit to re-caffeinate.


And a tasty bacon cheese burger to fill the stomach. It had been a while since I had real bacon in a burger (in Dubai 'bacon' is usually made with beef, turkey or chicken meat) and it was very tasty!


I then caught a taxi for the 11 kilometre ride back to Zvartnots International Airport (EVN). The fixed price of the ride to the airport was 2000 dram (~$4) so my cheapest taxi ride to any airport!


And outside departures ready to check-in.


I still had a few drams left so bought some dried plum and peach Armenian chocolates to take home.


The Flydubai 737-8 with Mount Ararat in the distance.


And an amazing view again of Mount Ararat on our port side as we climb out after take-off.


And flying over Yerevan as we head east.


And the Armenian Highland below which I had just driven through three days previously and Lake Sevan in the distance.


My pre-ordered dinner of Chicken Kiev and an assortment of snacks including, hummus, olives, chocolate and bread sticks.


Starting our descent over Iran.


Iran's Kish Island in the Arabian Gulf.


And back at Dubai International Airport after an amazing and fascinating trip to Armenia and Nagorno-Karabakh!