This summer, in July, I fulfilled a longstanding dream — an Atlantic crossing on the QE2. It brought back to me reassuring memories of childhood trips with my parents, and the pleasures of splendidly unchanging British tradition. After the tragic events of the last month, there is an Edenic quality to the trip, an innocence that now may feel remote. But it seems worth sharing the voyage.

I FIRST crossed the Atlantic as a child, on the Aquitania. My family had moved to Canada, and my sister and I went back and forth from England, where we were in school.

So I was thinking, in part, of a sentimental journey when I arranged to sail in July on the QE2, the 32-year-old flagship of the Cunard Line. I had the idea, undeniably nostalgic, of reclining on a deck chair, head wrapped in a scarf; strolling in the sea breeze; eating fancy food.

The ship owes its fame to its age and capacity, facilities and amusements, the cachet of its provenance and passengers, who have included Nelson Mandela, former President Jimmy Carter, Elizabeth Taylor, Dr. Ruth — and Queen Elizabeth II. The ship's crew of 921 includes 50 chefs and 4 plumbers. The QE2 has a helicopter pad, a synagogue, an "alpha massage capsule" that is supposed to produce an inordinately deep state of relaxation ($38 for 25 minutes), a five-ward hospital, a kennel, a garage for cars and motorbikes and a morgue.

The ship's interior, if a bit heavy on turquoise, is vast and plush, with rich carpet along passageways, royal blue velvet armchairs for afternoon tea, floral arrangements with agapanthus and orchids.

Among the many possibilities on our sailing, passengers could putt golf balls, play Mine Sweeper on a computer, knit and stitch, smoke cigars under the stars, attend a seminar on osteoporosis or perfume, renew their marriage vows with Father John. Unaccompanied ladies could dance the samba and quickstep with gentlemen hosts.

While the Cunard Line was bought by the Carnival Corporation in 1998, the QE2 retains its British traditions. True, there are line-dancing and karaoke, and many more Adidases than bespoke John Lobb moccasins walking the decks. American accents predominated (of 1,358 passengers, 761 were American, 300 British). But there is also 11 a.m. hot bouillon on the Sun Deck and five places for afternoon tea. English nannies supervise in the nursery, and the ship's branch of Harrods sells Beefeater teddy bears.

And the class system, if subtle, is present. There are four categories of accommodation — M (Mauretania), C (Caronia), P (Princess and Britannia) and Q (Queens) — each with its own dining room, to which passengers are assigned. The 530-seat Mauretania, with two seatings, and 554-seat Caronia are vast "restaurants." The 100-seat Princess, 108-seat Britannia and 231-seat Queens are more intimate "grills." When it comes to teatime, cocktails, or a game of cards, P's and Q's have their own sea-view lounge with a sign by the door: "The Queen's Grill Lounge is Reserved for Grill Passengers Only. Thank You." In a reversal of ocean liner tradition, however, the captain's table alternates between the Mauretania and Caronia restaurants. For a change, the casual Lido has a buffet.

http://www.nytimes.com/2001/10/14/travel/CUNARD.html