Not unlimited funds, but a fair amount of time.
Brisket observations from my last BBQ trip, second week February
2016, in order of preference (first three very close; last one not
close). The rest of the meals - Mexican and hamburgers - obviously
off topic. All orders a pound of moist and beer where available;
maybe a side or two and another meat. All notes from this trip.
The first three are return visits.
Black's, Lockhart - this is my happiest happy place for barbecue,
edging out both by food and experience other happy places. I will
go there (if someone drives me) in preference to all others. This
time the meat was well smoked but not well colored, the result
being a little gray. Nice texture, a little soft; I know some
frown upon a pot-roasty barbecue, but for me if it tastes right,
that's the clincher. A little saltier than the norm. Sauce,
moderate spice, thicker than average for the area. Good though
wholly unnecessary. The outfit now has a series of hot sauces -
the ghost pepper one is pretty numbing but doesn't enhance the
food at all. Beer around $4.
Two Bros., San Antonio - for reasons unknown, this is not an
Internet favorite, despite its being in Texas Monthly's list and
its serving some of the best I've ever had. I am so confident in
the cook's talents that this is one of the few places I will
order chicken, though I didn't this time. The texture of the
brisket here - soft but not too soft, with a distinct grain,
lots of delicious intramuscular fat - may be the best ever.
Relatively heavily smoked; this intensified to an almost but
not quite unpleasant level in leftovers consumed in the evening.
The thing that drags this down to a tie for second was that
this might be the first Texas brisket that cried out, albeit a
little meekly, for salt. The tangy sauce was only a little
spicy and vinegary, more than amply sweet. There are two other
sauces; I tried the sweet, which was like sugar water. Beer
$3.50-4.
City Market, Luling - another of the perennial greats, with a
line to match. The most balanced brisket of the lot, but the
meat wasn't as luscious as either of the above. For those who
like their moist to be moist but not fatty, this might be your
little piece of heaven. The stuff is of a perfection, but to me
it seems to be missing some little kick, so the famous peppery
mustard-tomato sauce is almost necessary. On the other hand,
the pork spare rib here is perfect and needs no adulteration.
No beer - a separate station and line for sides and soft drinks,
which are $1-2 a can or bottle.
R&G, McMahan - ordered a plate of extra moist with two sides,
as there was no bulk price posted and no time to negotiate,
because a line was forming behind us. The cashier/waitress
shouted "moist" to the kitchen. When she came to the table
with our order, I discovered she'd rung in for two plates,
not a terrible thing as they were somewhat modest plates, and
the charge for the both was about what one would pay for one
at one of the big boys. What was a terrible thing was that
the meat was not moist. I mean, it was tender enough, and
there was a little rim of fat here and there, but no. I asked
the girl if the kitchen could spare an ounce or two of fat
to luxuriousize the serving, so she went back to talk to the
cook, who talked back to her loud enough for me to hear. Who's
the guy who wants the fat? I shouted across the room, no great
feat as it's very resonant, I can hear you, whereupon there
was silence. In a while a couple ounces of trim came out,
after which the meat was perfect. The beans were okay, and
I thought the yellow potato salad likewise, but my podner
found the former a bit underdone and the latter painfully
sweet. A good but not great meal; the best deal of the
trip, though, as plates were something like $6. Soft drinks
$1, beers $2.
Davila's, Seguin - ordered a plate of extra moist plus ribs
with two sides, as there was no bulk price posted and no time
to negotiate, because a line was forming behind us. The
brisket would have been great if it had been cooked a couple
more hours and foiled or coolered a bunch of time to rest.
As it was, the fat wasn't rendered enough, and the grain of
the meat was too developed. Tender enough but not the texture
that I favor - fibers too prominent. Decent flavor, too light
smoking. The ribs by contrast had had too much heat and too
much sitting around time, a tough skin forming on the outside.
The inside of one rib was meltingly, perhaps almost too, tender;
the other, actually an end piece, was resilient throughout;
adequate seasoning and smoking. Beans were okay; the rice was
flavorless and with a weird day-before-yesterday texture.
Beers $3 something. A little more time and effort and this
would have been a contender, too.