Purchase the 1 day pass. I didn't use a guide..a moto driver for $3 will take you just outside the Temples and wait for you..explore by yourself ..They want to sell you a photo ID pass but its not necessary...If you want the river scene..stp by Guest House # 9..it is a great place to meet travellers and the deck over the river is great for a sunset drink . Enjoy your trip. I was there last Oct. and I can assure you it was one of the highlites of my travels.
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MRKEY