We visited NZ for 10 nights--my husband surprised me with the destination at LAX for our anniversary--back in Sept 2009. He booked us at the Westin Auckland (2 nights, no longer a hotel, converted into condos!),
The Spire in Queenstown (3 nights),
Wharekauhau Lodge (2 nights), and
Greenhill Lodge in the Hawke's Bay area (3 nights, not far from the Farm at Cape Kidnappers). This trip was all about wine tasting and bungy jumping for me, two of my favorite pursuits.
For the most part, we largely agree with our OP's assessments of many of the luxury properties...with a few caveats.
Auckland:
DON'T MISS A VISIT TO WAIHEKE ISLAND no matter how long/the reason you're in Auckland. It is SPECTACULARLY beautiful, easily akin to the drama of Queenstown or even the Cape Winelands in South Africa. It was a very easy day trip recommendation from the Westin concierge, knowing we liked beautiful scenery and wine. The scenery is majestic, and the wineries/winery restaurants were fantastic, and with very nice wines--especially great Syrahs, something I wasn't expecting in NZ! We took a 30-45 min ferry ride there and back and had a fantastic day of it. There also are lodging options on the island from what I know, and if ever we return to NZ, staying on Waiheke Island is a definite priority for us.
Waiheke Island coastline, with Auckland downtown in the distance:
Waiheke Island coastline:
Te Whau winery on Waiheke Island (amazing Syrah, akin to Hermitage):
Queenstown:
We stayed at
The Spire and had a meal and drinks (and property tour) at
Eichardt's Hotel--this was before they were under the same ownership. We preferred The Spire, to be honest, perhaps because it was a bit undiscovered and perhaps because we loved the modern chic decor. It was very intimate, and the service was fantastic. Eichardt's was also wonderful, but the rooms were a bit smaller and obviously a bit more traditional then. Food/beverage and service for us was great at both. We weren't surprised when we learned a few years later that they ended up under the same ownership.
We spent our time in Queenstown doing
bungy jumping (one of my passions), white water rafting, and
wine tasting in the celebrated Central Otago wine region there. I did the 134 m Nevis High Wire bungy jump (twice), which is located about 45-60 min drive out of town. This is the 3rd biggest commerical free bungy jump in the world.
Video of my first jump (swan dive!):
Video of my second jump (they allowed me a lighter cord to fall farther/closer to the riverbed):
We also visited numerous wineries in the Central Otago--one of the great wine regions for Pinot Noir. Craggy Range may be the best known, but it was Felton Road that most impressed. Pinot Noir is phenomenal in this region, the only place in the world where a fair number could approach (but not quite equal) the complexity and minerality of Burgundy, IMO. We still get Felton Road Pinot Noirs for our cellar.
We also did an afternoon white water raft excursion. Only class 1-4 falls, so a little less dramatic than the bungy jumping...but at least my husband was willing to do it. He was not willing to do bungy!
Martinborough:
My husband wisely skipped the Marlborough wine region, famous for its Sauvignon Blancs but not always offering the highest quality for that varietal IMO. Instead, we flew up to Wellington, rented a car, and drove to the
Wharekauhau Lodge outside Martinborough. We really enjoyed the Lodge, but I agree that its furnishings likely need a refresh--which was true even then! Still, the food and service were tremendous, and the scenery was absolutely breathtaking--though I still give the nod to Waiheke Island and Queenstown based on my personal taste.
Martinborough wineries were wonderful, but the wines were just solid IMO. We did one and a half full days of wine tasting, and spent the rest of the time touring around the Wharekauhau Lodge ranch. It was a very relaxing and peaceful couple of days, I assure you. You really felt like you were in another world at Wharekauhau Lodge. We are glad we went, but between Martinborough not being our favorite wine region and there being so many other great lodges/regions yet to visit, we'd likely skip this on our next visit to NZ.
Hawkes Bay:
We stayed at the
Greenhill Lodge, based on my husband knowing I'd want to be closer to the wineries in the area. My biggest and really only regrets from this trip is that he didn't book us at the
Farm at Cape Kidnappers and didn't include Milford Sound near Queenstown. We had a very nice stay at Greenhill--there was just us and another couple from Los Angeles, ironically, and we are still friends with one of them! It was more deluxe than luxury, but the food/service was great--and it was very conveniently located to most of the great wineries in the Hawkes Bay wine appellation. If you like wine, the Hawkes Bay region has some fantastic wineries and great wines.
We did take one night for dinner at the Farm at Cape Kidnappers, and it truly was a very memorable dinner...and a truly extraordinary property. Its location is amazing. The service was great. When we return to NZ, including a stay here is a priority for me!
FINAL VERDICT:
New Zealand really is as magical as everyone says. We are looking to return in the next few years...and have been thinking about a return ever since this first trip!
The highlights for me: Waiheke Island, Queenstown, amazing wines in Central Otago, Hawkes Bay and even Waiheke, and the bungy jumping!
We missed the Milford Sound and other Queenstown highlights, so returning to Queenstown is a certainty on our return. We likely will stay at one of the out of town lodges instead of The Spire/Eichardt's, simply to do something new. We also will be sure to stay on Waiheke Island on our return...and Cape Kidnappers.
Huka Lodge shockingly doesn't intrigue me as much as it does everyone else, though still I'd like to see that part of the North Island. Huka's dining formality is an issue for me--my husband wisely avoided it since they required jackets for dinner in their main dining room, something I fastidiously avoid. I don't know if they have that same policy, but I wouldn't be thrilled to stay if they still do.