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Dec 7, 2015 | 8:50 pm

#10

rivlinm

Join Date: Jan 2009

Location: TPA

Programs: AA PLT, HH Gold, FM Prem, SPG gold

Posts: 581

Kiev, Ukraine: Day 1

I had initially planned to stay at the Fairmont Grand Hotel Kiev (to satisfy a final stay credit), but as you will notice, day one in Kiev was more like part-of-an-evening one. Once I came to the realization that I really would just have a meal and maybe take a few photos around Maidan Square (where I needed to meet early the next morning) I decided it was best to not spend €150 at the Fairmont but rather a whopping ~$26 (596 UAH) at the Hotel Kozatskiy. I was very skeptical of what I had signed up for, but given my needs and the location of the hotel to the sites I wanted to see in my 6 hours in Kiev it was actually the perfect hotel. I’ll get back to the hotel in due time, but after clearing immigration I found my pre-booked driver from HappyGoTaxi and he was happy to wait while I took out 1000 UAH (~$40; way more than I would need) at the ATM before heading off for his car.

My driver, Svitosar, was beyond friendly and helpful. He spoke perfect English and explained traffic from the east side of the Dnieper River to the center of the city would be bad and suggested we avoid driving to my hotel for the moment but rather visit a few sites and parks along the way. I wasn’t going to argue with seeing a few extra sites; especially in an area I wouldn’t have time to reach without a car.

We started at what translates to ‘The National Museum of the History of the Great Patriotic War of 1941-1945.’ Or WWII for short. On the grounds of the museum is also the Motherland Monument which is otherwise known as Rodina-Mat. The 62m tall monument was built in 1981 with a Soviet emblem on the shield and its upright sword was actually cut short so as not to rise above the nearby Kiev Pechersk Lavra. (An othrodox Christian Monestary know for its caves) Atop the grounds of the museum was also an eternal flame in memory of those soldiers who lost their lives during WWII. Great views of Kiev and the river below, but we were walking at a brisk pace and I didn’t have an opportunity to take any great photos.

Lots of tanks outside the WWII museum

Motherland Monument

Eternal flame

Looking back (east) across the Dnieper River

One of many freezes paying tribute to the war’s heroes

Back in the car we drove a bit more toward the city and much like the last stop, just parked where we pleased, on the sidewalk along the road. Our next free tour stop would be home to a museum and memorial recognizing three major famines suffered by the citizens of the Ukranian SSR in the 20th century by the government and now classified as genocide (officially in 2006). The largest of the three famines, The Holodomor of 1932-1933, is estimated to have claimed the lives of between 2.4 and 7.5 million. The entrance of the memorial recognizes the years of the famine with an Angel of Sorrow on each side. At the base of the monument is a statue known as Bitter Memory of Childhood.

Angel of Sorrow

Child grasping a few strands of wheat in Bitter Memory of Childhood

Genocide Memorial with Kiev Pecherska Lavra Belltower in the background

On the same grounds lies the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier and another eternal flame. This eternal flame has sparked two recent political fires (sorry, it was too easy) when artists and activists were jailed for an extended period for frying eggs over the flame. In the same park as the famine memorial to boot. We continued our drive and reached Maidan Square in just a few minutes after passing the Kiev History museum and Parliament.

Tomb of the Unknown Soldier

Parliament

In the square we again parked where we pleased, but this time my driver was very concerned and was constantly looking back at his car while I checked in the Hotel Kozatskiy. A step down from the Fairmont, but the location was perfect. I quickly dropped my bag and Svitosar offered to show me around the area and point out a great cantina for sampling Ukrainian cuisine. It’s almost as if he didn’t want to leave me, and if not for his car being illegally parked, I think he may have stayed the whole night. We walked under Maidan Square to cross the street and he suggested I start with Puzata Hata, or Fat House. I can certainly see why this would make you fat, great food for less than $4. I hadn’t eaten since my early morning bacon butty, so I was pretty hungry at this point.

Hotel Kozatskiy

Lobby

Third floor atrium led to a maze of rooms sure to be any fireman’s worst nightmare

The best that $26 gets

Soviet bathroom; a step up from Iran’s common ‘hole in the ground’ accommodations

Dinner at Fat House

Cafeteria style

Lots of folks lingering in the relaxing dinning room

Serving borscht

<$4 in damage: Borscht, Chicken Kiev, Perogies and some other stuff…

Sufficiently stuffed I wandered back underground in search of some Putin swag (maybe a roll of TP) but most of the shops were already closed and unfortunately wouldn’t be open by the time I left for Chernobyl tomorrow morning. Just a short stroll from the square was St. Michael’s Golden Domed Monastery. Like many historic buildings in Ukraine the building was demolished by the Soviets, but rebuilt in 1999 after Ukrainian independence. First constructed in the Middle Ages it underwent many renovations especially in the 18th century. I didn’t make it inside but its Byzantine inside differed from its Baroque exterior. Further uphill was St. Andrew’s Church, another Baroque design. It was build on a hill later named Andriyivska Hill and currently has many structural problems due to a settling foundation. Without my tripod I decided to head back to the square and take some better photos there.

Kiev underground

St. Michael’s Golden Domed Monastery Belltower

St. Michael’s Golden Domed Monastery

St. Andrew’s Church perched atop Andriyivska Hill

St. Andrew’s Church, not Cathedral

Back at Maidan Square, or Independence Square, I went exploring from my hotel in the northwest to the Hotel Ukraine in the southeast. This historic square and de facto center of the city has held a variety of names over the centuries including October Revolution Square and Soviet Square. Maidan is the Ukrainian word for square and comes from a mix of Persian and Arabic. It has played host to the city government and the ruling elite over the years. Most notably however, it is recognized for hosting Ukraine’s most recent political revolution in 2014, the Euromaidan. Previously was the Orange Revolution in 2004. The Trade Union Building on the northeastern side of the square, home to the main clock tower, is covered with banners claiming ‘Glory to Ukraine’ since the damage has not been repaired. This is the same building many assumed housed snipers who intended to provoke and escalate the situation by shooting both police and opposition forces. The square is split by Khreschatyk Street and is lined with fountains, public art exhibits and statues such as ‘Founders of Kiev.’ I roamed the square for quite sometime watching locals enjoy their beers and being asked for donations for the wounded soldiers many times. Beneath the square are a number of stalls for shops in addition to a variety of higher end shops, much like a shopping mall, named Hlobus. Eventually I began to get cold and stopped by a supermarket for some beers before heading back to the hotel to get some sleep before my early morning Chernobyl trip.