...Air travelers put themselves into the hands of others on many levels, relinquishing control of their fate. In my curmudgeonly middle age, I dread this necessary passivity. The airport terminal, with its lines, security checkpoints and domineering time schedules, symbolizes the first step into custody. So I was somewhat surprised to hear that George Chen, founder of Betelnut, Shanghai 1930, Xanadu and the Long Life Noodle Company chain, was mounting a high-end French-Japanese destination restaurant in the new international terminal at the San Francisco airport. The idea seemed all wrong.

I understand some of the logic behind it...
http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/articl...5/CM189307.DTL