I went a couple of years ago and found it not the easiest place to travel (and I had been hardened by places like Cambodia and Nepal), but very rewarding. I have no war-veteran or family connection, just a lot of curiosity.

Tips: Be very careful of pickpockets, don't expect to get around quickly (a 100-mile bus trip is an all-day affair), and look into the 2 or 3-day tours offered by leading guesthouses in Saigon or Hanoi. They're so cheap that you'd be hard-pressed to go someplace like the Mekong Delta or Ha Long Bay on your own for cheaper.