Not a first-hand experience but I've been tempted to drive from Bariloche to Ushuaia for some time now. This is based on my readings and conversations with people who are from/really know the area.
Originally Posted by
philip0
[*]Ground transport between FTE, El Chalten. Initially I planned to get a private transfer from FTE to the hotel in El Chalten as we arrive early afternoon. However, looking at quotes ($600 for two people one way) it seems renting a car for a week, even if it just sits in a lot, provides more optionality for roughly similar cost and more control over our schedule. Am I missing something?
By $600 you mean 600 USD? That is a lot of money. There are daily coaches from El Calafate to El Chaltén which cost around 400 ARS per person one way. The journey takes roughly three hours.
I wouldn't drive in Patagonia in anything but a 4WD, even if the road from El Calafate to El Chaltén is paved.
Originally Posted by
philip0
[*]Cave of the Hands as a destination in general (e.g., vs. Walichu) and an intermediate destination between FTE arrival and USH departure. When I booked the trip this was one of my top shortlisted must-sees. I'm not bothered that it's a 6-hour drive from El Chalten with only one (lame) place to stay nearby, but getting there and then back down to Ushuaia costs 2 days (3 total including day at the caves). Is the road at least scenic? Is there a way to get down to Ushuaia that doesn't require us to simply double back to Chalten or Calafate? [*]Ground transport between El Calafate and Ushuaia. I'm inclined to fly but should I be considering the bus more seriously for thrills or scenery?
El Calafate to Cueva de las Manos is a ten hour drive, and you have 200+ km of a bumpy gravel road with no mobile phone signal and very few cars, if any, passing by. You will drive through the Patagonian steppe - scenic for a while, dull after the first few hours. I drove from El Calafate to Río Gallegos which is a similar scenery some years ago. I liked it, the girlfriend slept most of the way.
To get to Ushuaia from Cueva de las Manos you could pass through Río Gallegos instead of El Calafate. Río Gallegos ranks very high in my "ugliest town on Earth" list. From there you need to cross the border to Chile, take the ferry across the Magellan Strait, re-enter Argentina and drive all the way south to Ushuaia. It's a very long journey. I'd rather fly.