Many Westerners put together amazing trips to China without the aegis of organized tours. I often admire Westerners for their senses of adventure and curiosity, which put the Chinese themselves to shame. Consider staying in hostels, even in the major cities. There, you will meet many Westerner travelers, and they can share ideas with you on where to go, how to navigate, etc. Besides, many hostels offer unique experiences that regular hotels simply cannot match. hostelworld.com is a terrific resource for that. Good luck and bon voyage.