How about Lugano - it's the Swiss side of the Lake region. Mountains and lakes. And everything in Switzerland is within a day's train ride. Although the Swiss drink like everyone, I doubt you will see any hooliganism or loutish behavior there.

Don't know what you can do about the smoking. Eat al fresco a lot, perhaps. I just cannot think of a part of Europe where smoking is uncommon (like California here in the US).