Wow! We had 5 days and it wasn't nearly enough! I could have spent a couple of weeks there easily.

I agree about hiring a car. It's cheap and easy and so much better to take yourself to the moai and beaches than to go on tours. We found we were often at the most spectacular sights with just a handful of other people.

We stayed at the Tupa Hotel. I wouldn't recommend it - it was clean but dated and pretty basic with no restaurant/bar, aircon, pool etc. When we return we'll probably do a b&b.

Depending on your budget, there are some very nice boutique hotels there but they are pricey.

Overall, we found reports of the high cost of everything rather exaggerated. Sure, by many South American standards prices are high but for Europeans, I don't think paying the equivalent of £1.50 for a Coke in a cafe at the harbour feels expensive. I also found diving for about £20 a pop including private guide and equipment cheaper than just about anywhere else I've been.