We stayed at Amanjena and La Mamounia this xmas. I wish we didn't move to La Mamounia... it was not what I remembered. I stayed there 15 years ago and it was a classic dignified hotel (we got a hand written note slipped under our door inviting us to cocktails with the manager.) This time around it was crowded and overrun by tourists. The lobby looks like a cruise ship with shops and way overpriced restaurants. The service was indifferent.

The Aman is only 15 minutes from the medina and it's a welcome retreat from the touristy chaos there. We stayed in the Garden Maison which was perfect... before the refresh.