doc- yes i am flying NW, and it is a very early departure on the return indeed. I'm really looking forward to every aspect of the trip, except the long flight in coach, and because it is a NW vacations fare (really low!) i can't use miles for an upgrade, unfortunately. Oh well, i will just have to spend all that time thinking of what to do with all the FF miles i am getting.

Thanks for all the info so far, i am staying at the royal river, which i think you mentioned, flyme2. It is not quite in the heart of the city, but the price is definitely right. This is not my first trip to asia (but it is a first for my friend going along), I lived in Tokyo last summer and got hooked on travelling, and accruing miles of course.

Anyone have any specific restaurants to suggest, i love thai food and plan on splurging on a few great meals. I appreciate all the advice, and I will definitely post my "novice" FT trip report once back from my vacation in the far east.