Intro
The last time we were in Montreal was several years ago in April. We were not impressed. Maybe it was the weather, maybe it was the pile of melting snow, maybe it was the not so nice hotel room we had (way back then when IHG has one of the promos were I needed to stay in different chains). I am not really sure what it was but that visit was not a very successful one.
We were told again and again that we went in the wrong time of the year. Fast forward to the present, it was time to go visit again, and give Montreal a second chance in redemption.
Planning
Last time we went we flow to Burlington, Vermont and drove to the city. It was not a bad drive, and it was made better by the fact the hotel forgot to charge us for the parking. But all in all it was more hassle than we wanted to have this time. Direct flights to Montreal as extremely expensive, probably for the ungodly reason that the airline can charge that much. Luckily, Porter airline, although far from cheap and with the stop in Toronto, had its usual all the time sale.
Unfortunately, two tickets were not available on the really deep discounted tickets, so I’ve bought one and another one. The average price for the ticket was $315 which was not too shabby for leaving early on Friday morning and returning late on Sunday night at the middle of Montreal festival season. Not the best deal in the world, but not bad either. Prices only went up after that point, even with the rolling Porter deals, so it was a good call to buy the tickets when we did. If only American Airlines had a direct flight from DC to Montreal, Avios would be great; alas that is not the case.
As for lodging, I was debating between the InterContinental (taking advantage of good rate and one free credit card night), and the Marriott (taking advantage of good rate and bonus points for having the lounge closed and skipping breakfast). I have sent both hotels e-mail requesting combining reservations and several other questions. The Intercontinental answered within a day with a very detailed response but very cut and dry one. The Marriott did not answer at all.
In the meantime, Marriott and Delta had opened the merged reservation system, and I find a room in the Delta Montreal which was much cheaper than either the Marriott or the InterContinental. In addition the lounge is open during the weekend when we will be visiting. While we are not planning on eating in the hotel, it is good to know that the afternoon coffee, soft drinks and something small before dinner will be available. The only down side of the Delta is that there will be no points accrued during the stay. They have responded to my e-mail within 2 hours, despite not answering all the questions. Follow-up e-mails were answered almost immediately in hotel terms (within 15 minutes). So far they have made a great impression.
In the end, couple of days before the trip IHG came out with the latest promo of doubling points in the period of the stay, the location was closer to where we need to be, and I have found good deal for another trip later this year in which the free night certificate would have been used otherwise, and no pre-upgrade in either Delta or the Marriott a day prior to check in – short and the long of it, in the end it was to be the InterContinental.
As an epilogue, the Marriott charged a night as a no show despite canceling in time, which took some effort to reverse; the InterContinental night posted as not qualifying which took some effort to reverse. I’m still waiting on the bonus points.
IAD – YUL, Porter Air
It was a great morning to be traveling. The heat wave seems to have been broken and driving to the airport with the windows open and a nice comfortable breeze on the way was a great start for the trip, despite it being way too early in the morning for vacation. Friday morning traffic was not too bad at all and we got to the airport within 40 min, which is a very good time. It seems that the work on the Silver line of the metro to the airport continues, despite the two years delay that was announced.
Parking was easy ($30 for the two and a half days we were away). We got to the terminal quickly with plenty of time to spare.
Unfortunately, only two lane were open at security today, and it seems that everyone who was on their first journey through the airport was in front of us (yes sir, you do need to take the change out of your pocket; yes sir, all the money; yes sir, also you cell phone, and so on). But finally we passed security and in no time were whisked on the AirTran to Terminal B.
One of the perks one gets with the Ritz credit card is the airport lounge access. At IAD it is in the British Airways lounge during the morning hours (when no BA flight is leaving). I have used this lounge via the card multiple times in the past and it is a nice place to spend some time before the flight. The usual snacks and drinks are presented, less elaborate than those when the lounge actually function as a BA lounge of course. All in all it is a nice place, especially for free for you and your guests.
The view from the lounge
Wine for breakfast anyone?
The flight itself was very pleasant as most Porter flights are. The flight was not full so I managed to move and get a row all to myself. Despite the short flight time to Toronto City airport, Porter manage to serve free snacks and beverage (including alcoholic) in a real glass – you hear that US base carriers? As always with Porter the service was excellent and done with a smile. The Captain even pointed out when we flow over interesting land marks.
Harper's Ferry from the air (look closely and you'll see the remains after the fire)
Niagara Falls from the air
Transition in Toronto City was quick. No more than 10 minutes to pass immigration, pass security again and into the domestic lounge. Porter provide a lounge to all passengers with free WiFi, free beverages and snacks.
The flight from Toronto City to Montreal was another quick flight with the same smiling and personable service. I do like the airline, despite the need to connect in Toronto City when you go anywhere else in Canada. I wish one day they could expand to direct cross border flights without the connection at Toronto City.
Montreal – First Impressions
The domestic terminal at YUL is quite small and crapped, but it did not matter at this time. We quickly found our way to the arrival halls. Domestic arrivals are at hall A, while the bus to downtown (with the ticket machines) are between C and D. Which meant quite a trek to get there. Although we originally planned on buying the $18 three day pass, a friend was able to pick us up (in a convertible no less), so instead we bought the $13 weekend pass which proved to be a great deal. We took the trouble to buy them at the airport because it seems those are the only machines that are open to the fake chip credit cards that we American have.
There is nothing like riding in a convertible in a sunny day to raise your mood and make you feel good. The vibe we got from the city was completely different from the last time. It seemed to be a good start to a good weekend.
Hotel InterContinental Montreal
The InterContinental main attribute is its location: just on the edge of Old Montreal, just across the street from the Convention Center, and within easy walking distance to two metro stops. Both for the tourist as well as for the business man the location cannot be beat.
The main entry way to the hotel (and valet parking) is situated on Saint Antoine street which a main through throw in the city. But turning right at the corner and within one block you are already in Old Montreal. It is less than 10 minutes’ walk to get to the main tourist attractions in the old town. Downtown is only 10 minutes’ walk in the opposite direction.
While the hotel is high rise, unless you’ll get an extremely high floor most likely you’ll see another hotel as your view. We got to explore many rooms in the W across the street from our room, with just a silver of the river and the convention center showing up.
While we never explored the food scene around the hotel (there are way too many good restaurants in Montreal, which are not located in the tourist trap of the old city), the location dictate that one can have a meal within a short walk from the hotel.
While the hotel carry the flag of the InterContinental brand, as I will discuss below, it is really a solid 4 star hotel, but not a 5 star hotel as one would have expect from the brand. The lobby is grand (once you pass the fact that entering the hotel it seems like entering a cave with valet parking on your right, coffee shop on your left and the concierge desk in front of you). Once you get up one floor to the actual lobby things look markedly better.
Prices at the hotel tend to vary greatly, but are still reasonable. We have stayed on one paid night and on one annual credit card night. The lowest price point was about 2 months out on an AAA rate, which turned out to be less than $200 a night for a deluxe King.
Our room was on the 17th floor (which despite the numbering scheme is not high at all) facing the W hotel across the street. As previously mentioned, there was only a silver of view – on one side the convention center and on the other side the convention center.
The room itself was not very large, but still comfortable. It was a connecting room to the suite next door. The bed was good and firm. The work desk was usable. A small table with a chair were present as well. The TV was flat-TV situated over the minibar and some storage drawers. The bathroom had a bath and a separate (smallish) shower. The usual InterContinental amenities were provided (including the instance of discarding the old half used ones when they bring new one the next day).
On first glance the room seems well kept, but on closer look (especially in the bath room) you could easily spot places were the wall paper is peeling, the grout need some work, the wood panels chipped. Nothing that jump out at you – but some TLC is needed there.
We have used the wired internet connection (with a travel router) without a problem. As IHG members we could have used up to 5 devices for free. The standard internet speed was more than adequate for our activities, including video teleconferencing.
I was surprised that no turn down service was provided for the caliber of the hotel.
Service is where the hotel failed, and where the 4 star designations come into play. We checked in around 3PM in the afternoon, and already been told they are doing us a favor because it is before the check in time. Granted that is true, but on a Friday afternoon? Our Platinum status (worthless as it is) was not mentioned at all, neither was the Platinum welcome bonus points. As we had two reservations and asked at check in to stay in the same room – Big mistake. So while we promised we will have the same room and all will be seamless – it was far from it.
The second day, once we came back in the afternoon, the keys (as I have expected frankly) did not work. I have no problem with the fact that I need to rekey the room cards everyday – but why cannot you just tell me that upfront, instead of promising that all is set. It is one needless aggravation that could easily avoided with setting up the expectations correctly.
As the name of the reservation had to be changed in the second night, I suspected that it will going to be messed up – so we spent more than 30 minutes that night with the front desk trying to make it right. Despite all of them being very nice and trying to be helpful – no one seems to understand what the problem is, nor how to fix it. Another 30 minutes at check-out the next day with the same result but with the promise that everything will be corrected and the points will post the right account. Needless to say, the stay was posted as not qualifying one which needed more work to resolve later. At that instance I also inquired about the missing Platinum welcome bonus points, and was assured again that they will post – which of course they did not.
I have contacted the hotel before the stay to indicate that this was a special occasion stay for us – but no one mentioned it.
Add to that no welcome letter as I’m accustom to in InterContinental (and other less high end brands), no turn down service, and the mess with the room points – service left a lot to be desired.
Montreal – Eating
Montreal does not lack places to eat. Everywhere you look there is a good place to find some good food at. We really did not have a bad meal while in town.
In the first day we have gotten a sandwich in Olive & Gourmando. While the food was superb (there is a reason why they are featured as the must go in Montreal), staff were rude and condescending. Again the place was packed and seemed to be packed all the time, so they don’t need to be nice. In the end we decided just to take out our sandwiches and go eat them on the river, only couple of blocks away from the shop.
That night we ate at La Grenadine. It is a very small, hole in the wall (literally between a demolished construction site and a garage shop) French restaurant. The place is small. We were lucky enough to reserve in advance and got to sit at the table at the front end of the restaurant which is almost completely private (except from the coming and going). The restaurant is BYOB which worked out great for us. As for the food, we did the chef surprise menu, and it was one of the best meals we had in a long time. They are very attentive for your wishes (allergies, foods you really do not like), but I would encourage everyone to be adventurous and try new things. The portions size is just right, and by the end of the night we were completely full. At 55 CAD per person, you cannot get a better deal anywhere. Highly recommended.
The next two days we ate brunch. One day at Le Passé Composé and the other day at L’Avenue. The food at Le Passé Composé was good, but nothing more than that. Our Montreal’s locals raved about the place so maybe my expectation was a little too high. But all in all it was a very nice place to have brunch. L’Avenue on the other hand was a bit of a letdown (especially because we had to wait an hour to get a table). If you can get in without waiting, by all mean go; but there is nothing really special about the food that you cannot get anywhere else.
Montreal – Touring
We did not do too much of touring in the city as we really were going to visit family and friends.
On the first day we spent the afternoon at the Scndinave spa. I have been before at their facility in Whistler, but here the entire facility is an indoor one. Frankly, I don’t think I like it as much as the outdoor facilities they have in their other locations. The massages on the other hand were extremely good. When you ask for a deep tissue one, you’ll really get a deep tissue one (not what would pass in the USA as one). We both were happily sore once our treatment was over –and with the Canadian dollar so weak, the price was very reasonable. Don’t forget to ask for the hotel discount if you stay in one of the hotels in the area.
We did spend an hour or two at the Jean-Talon market which is a great place to wonder around, taste and smell the fresh produce, or just go and buy food for a lazy day picnic.
YUL – IAD, Porter Air
The flights back were uneventful and with the same standard as we came to expect from Porter. We took the bus to the airport and it was an easy and short ride. The airport is so well managed that there is really no need to get there early. We did not know that and spend 90 minutes waiting (with no lounge) for our flight.
The only down side for Porter is the strange connection to USA flight in Toronto City – walking as a group from one lounge to the next (meaning that we have to wait to everyone get their hand luggage before we can move to the next lounge).
But all in all, it is still one of my favorite airlines.