So I guess I'll answer my own questions for anyone else who might be wondering:

Aerogal flight. Bulkhead seats have lots of leg room, I never felt cramped and could extend my legs well. I was in 1A, and had 2A free (luckily - originally a lady with a lap child was there, but row 3 was empty and the FA recommended that she move back there). Seat was standard USA-style first class with AVOD which was good, though I didn't use it more than to play with the map. As usual, and as Seatguru will tell you, the IFE screen and tray table are in the armrests, so the seat was a bit less wide than the others, but I'm an average-to-big guy and had no comfort issues.

Food was decent, very attentive wine service. I was quite happy - it was by no means a let-down after coming off of a very good long-haul on the 787.