Thanks jpatokal, I was planning on travelling around the 12th so hopefully the Golden Week rush will be well and truly done with by then. Our son's not quite walking age and will be in a baby carrier so the walking and stairs will be more of an issue for the adults than for him.
wlock I thought that the dam is quite close to the Omachi end. If so wouldn't it take longer turning back than walking straight through? I am leaning towards a start from Toyama so we can experience the snow walls in the morning.
Scott.