We checked out of the Burj al Arab and were picked up by our EK chauffeur. We actually had a total of 5 EK chauffeur rides in total between us. I booked each of us on a separate ticket from Toronto, so that we could each be picked up at our respective homes and taken to YYZ (that makes 2 trips). Then DXB-Sheraton Mall of the Emirates (1), then Bur al Arab to DXB (2), and then from HYD to our hotel in Hyderabad.
We enjoyed the Emirates First Class lounge. Where else can you get a USDA prime steak in an airport lounge?
Customs at Hyderabad airport were fine. We were met by our EK chauffeur and for the first time, began our Indian journey. The drive was maybe 45 minutes or so to our hotel, the Taj Falknuma. The way was through some ramshackle streets full of life, and then through a gate into what can only be described as a magical place, and one of the great hotels of the world. Arriving at night was sublime. At the gate, we exited the taxi and were escorted aboard a horse drawn carriage for the rest of the way up to the hotel.
As we climbed up the stairs to the main entrance, we were most unexpectedly showered in rose petals from a hidden place above us. It was truly surprising and between that, the beautiful lit-up hotel, and the excitement of being in India, we were truly awestruck. We immediately felt the warmth of the hotel staff. The genuine hospitality was evident immediately. They were expecting us and immediately showed us to our room. Since we were arriving at around 8:30 pm and checking out the next morning at 7 am, we really didn’t need a large suite but the room that we were given was immaculate, spacious, and just perfect for our brief stay.
After checking out our room, we walked back to the main hotel building for a tour that we had requested when making our reservation. We just wanted a brief tour prior to our dinner reservation, since this hotel had such historic significance. It was owned by the richest man in the world at the time, who had a diamond so big that he used it as a doorstop. We were taken to a dining room that had 99 seats and one could easily hear what the person at the very opposite end of the table was saying at normal conversational level. It was incredible. Due to the kindness and warmth of the staff, and due to the care in which the palace was preserved, we were made to feel very much at home. Moreover, it did not feel in the least as if it were a mausoleum or museum. Even while empty, the hotel had a feel that it was very much in use and full of life. This is one of the aspects which sets this hotel apart from other palace and grand dame hotels.
The interior courtyard was beautifully lit up, as was the entrance to the restaurant.
When making our reservation, we also booked a dinner. We had arranged a tasting menu, and provided our dietary restrictions as well. They were incredibly prompt and precise in every aspect of our pre-arrival. At this point I want to extend a special thank you to Lyn Middlehurst, publisher of The Gallivanters Guide, who made a special effort to put me in touch with the General Managers at each of the hotels that we would be staying at in India. She also provided excellent, tasteful, and tactful advice throughout, particularly for a first-time traveller to India. At every hotel we stayed at in India, the management went out of their way to introduce themselves to us, and we received exemplary service throughout, no doubt in no small part to the tremendous reputation of Ms. Middlehurst and her fabulous guidebook and monthly guides. It was no exception at Taj Falaknuma. The General Manager, who had previously been at the Taj Exotica Maldives (another place that I had stayed, although after he had already departed to the Taj Falaknuma), graciously introduced himself to us once we were seated in the restaurant.
The chef, who had planned and orchestrated our tasting menu, which was made without onions as per our specification (no small feat for Indian cuisine, apart from the Jaines) , came by our table and chatted with us, and introduced us to each dish with a wonderful explanation of its significance and ingredients. In fact, he stayed later than usual just to make sure that our late dinner went off without a hitch. I must say, and my father agrees, that this was one of the single best meals that we have ever had. Each dish, in fact each mouthful, was spectacular. We had previously enjoyed Indian food, but this was 5 star cuisine by a master, and took us to a completely other level. It was incredible.
We were stuffed! But overjoyed, with the absolutely phenomenal service by the waiters, the masterfully executed tasting menu, the lively staff, the gracious General Manager, the conscientious and brilliant chef, and the magical surroundings. This was our introduction to India and from there, the immense quality of our experience continued.
The next morning, arising at sunrise, the magic continued. The morning air, sounds of the call to prayer, and birds chirping during the sunrise, were indescribable. Whats more, we saw the grandeur of the Taj Falaknuma for the first time in daylight.
Breakfast was a beautiful experience on their patio overlooking the city but we were too stuffed from the feast the night before so just had fruit, and to the waiter's disappointment, had to turn down the pastries and a fuller breakfast.
At 7:30 am, it was time to say goodbye to the Taj Falaknuma. What an impression it made on us. It was a historical palace hotel done right. No pretense. No stuffiness. Just warm staff with an incredible palace that everyone is made to feel at home in. This hotel is unlike any other hotel. It is unique and is not to be missed. We could not rate it any higher, and this, remarkably, was the night right after the night we spent at the Burj al Arab.
