Grosso modo correct! You don't have to validate a ticket bought through the internet, though. The reason is simple, I think, it won't fit in the machines Now, as far as the conductors are concerned, my experience so far says that two thirds are "human" and one third are a..holes. And I don't believe necessarily that is has to do anything with the passenger bought in flagranti being a foreigner: a) It's the sense of power of a person when wearing an uniform and b) the strange rules. For example, with a ticket for any train other than an IC or a Freccia from A to B you can board any train you want leaving any time or any day from A to go to B. But if you board an IC or a Freccia with a ticket issued for another train (even a later one), then you have to pay a fine plus the price of the ticket (but you can get the other one re-imbursed). The reason, supposedly, is that ICs and Freccie are operated by two different companies that have their own rules, whereby these companies, of course, belong to the same owner: The State railroads! Of corse one can say that you can go to the ticket office in the station and change your ticket. The problem though is that if you have a cheaper ticket (e.g. as a pensioner0 you are not allowed to change the ticket, not even for a fee.

Well, Italy, love it or leave it (I'm about to leave it for 6 months for "other" reasons).