I have read Azerbaijan described as militantly secular. It was all good. I am only sorry we did not buy a double entry visa (same price) as I would go back, but later in the year. End of March and beginning of April was cold. We stayed in most of one day because of a very windy pouring rain. Finally took a cab to the new modern art museum. So new they were still hanging pictures. That was our countryside day to see petroglyphs but the weather was too bad for the trip. Alas.

Friends of ours just came back from there on a Roads Scholar tour, run by MIR. If you choose to use one of those groups for a trip, go in several days early to Baku. They only had a half day tour. Really, they saw nothing. Baku deserves so much more. I have more info on Trip Advisor under Baku Marriott.