Thanks guys, I'm really bummed about Katsura... the concierge at the Hyatt Regency Kyoto took our passport details and went to the agency this morning (or yesterday - not sure with the time difference) and wrote back to say that unfortunately it's fully booked. They made an appointment at Shugakuin instead, but Katsura was the one that I *really* wanted to visit. I wish I had known to plan this months in advance. I've informed them about the moss temple as well and they're coordinating that for us now. I wonder if it's worth showing up at the agency one day while we're in town and just being really polite and asking if we can join a tour for Katsura?