As a frequent traveller to China I have seen overtime the degradation of access but for a while it was just use google HK and gmail/calendar was fine

on my recent trip I only had on and off gmail access, no ability to download files very rare calendar access and no search capability (used Bing...)

I even went to Shangrila hotel where I used to get full access (incl FB!) no go anymore

What do people do? it is time to (finally) use a VPN? recommendations?