One of our favorite hikes, about 2-2.5 hours drive north and east from Puntarenas is Rio Celeste. The photos of it look photo-shopped, but that's what it really looks like. The drive there is a bit long, but mostly pretty. The hike is rugged. It's less than 5 miles round-trip, but there's lots of tree roots to navigate, some steps, a bit slippery in spots, even a few cables attached to the hillside to help you get down the steeper parts. But it's the real deal-not a touristy spot at all. You'll see older and not-so-fit people able to do the hike, but it's not easy. Make certain to bring some kind of a camera, but keep it protected in case you slip on something. We put our point-and-shoot camera in a small, see-through, waterproof Pelican case from REI (~$17).

On the beach near Puntarenas, along the main road, get a "Granisado" (sno-cone) with 2 or 3 milks. A "Churchill" is even better. You can drive on the new highway to the fruit stands near Orotina-the best selection in CR.