Valentine's Day in Paris

After a lazy first morning in Paris, we headed out just after noon to an overcast, off and on rainy +8.
Meanwhile in the lobby, ah yes it must be Paris.





Today, we are heading over to the 16th and the chic shop of artisan butcher Hugo Desnoyer. Oui, un boucherie. But unlike any butcher shop that you are likely to see visit. Hugo is Paris' best butcher, supplying the city's rich and famous and many of the city's best restaurants. What is so unique is that Hugo also has an 8 person table d’hôte right in the shop, serving food and wine and offering a unique culinary experience in a relaxed communal atmosphere. This is absolute must stop for any foodie. Fortunately it is not yet well known as a "restaurant" ... ranked only #2,513 on tripadvisor. Even our concierge questioned my request for a reservation replying "it isn’t a restaurant but a butchery". As we arrived a little early for our 1PM rez, we strolled the neighborhood stopped for un café across the street.













And finally to Hugo's at 1PM where we were warmly welcomed by his staff.









Hugo brought us a glass of wine and charcuterie while we waited for our place at the table.





And then delicious truffle butter bread. Hey, we have nothing else planned this afternoon.



At around 1:15P our seats were ready and we joined two other couples who had already started their meal. A third couple joined us 10 minutes later. All the other couples today were from Paris (four native Parisians and two expat Americans) but everyone spoke English or some and we had a wonderful afternoon of eating, drinking and conversation in English, French and Franglais. All wondered how we tourists even knew about this place?

Another starter not on the menu. OMG, the foie gras was to die for. Sorry, I was so excited that I forgot to take a pic before I had devoured most of it.



Since the shop was closing tomorrow for the two week winter school holiday (seriously??) the usual prix fixe tasting menu was not offered, with everything a la carte. Mrs. SFO and I split the côte de boeuf pour 2 with frites, salad and veggies. And a lovely bottle of Burgundy.





Perfectly prepared veggies.



Wonderful dessert.





At sometime mid-meal, the original two couples left and their seats were taken by another two, including Hugo's wife and a family friend who had us in stitches with his story-telling. What a great afternoon!



If you are into foodie experiences, this is a must. And do it soon because once the word gets out and Hugo opens his planned Tokyo shop, it will be tougher than ever to experience the real deal with Hugo. We lucked into it by stumbling on John Talbott's Paris food blog, a frank review (pics and no hold commentary in FT trip report fashion) of one expat Parisian eating and drinking his way around Paris.

We exchanged contact info and walked part of the 16th with one of our newfound couple friends before heading back to our hotel, but not before stopping at The Trocadero on the way for more touristy pics.







And to the hotel back to relax before... another meal.

With no confirmed Valentine's Day dinner reservation, we decided to return to L'Atelier de Joel Robuchon St-Germain. After confirming with both the restaurant and concierge that the evening was no different from other nights... namely walk-ins only and no reservations except for 6:30P, we headed to the pleasant Westin Bar just after 8PM for a drink before heading over to L'Atelier. We commandeered two seats at the bar next to another couple, proceeded to strike up a conversation, made more friends and stayed for two hours. Turns out she was a former Bond girl who is now mostly retired from acting, her SO a genial businessman. We exchanged contact info and agreed to keep in touch.

With a short taxi ride, we arrived at Joel Robuchon around 10:15P only to met with a maitre d' who had clearly mastered the art of French snootery. Mais non monsieur, we are fully booked for the evening. No walk-ins tonight, only reservations booked two months in advance. "Eet eez a spayshall niyat. Eet eez St-Valentin." Vraiment?? I didn't know that you idiot. That's why I called and had the the concierge call and was told "dat eet eez no deefayran dan udder niyats." I must be mistaken my arse.

Sufficiently chastened for daring to show up without a rez, we headed up to Boulevard St-Germain to check out our other options. Fortunately, it was a gorgeous +13 evening so the walk was pleasant. We wound up at venerable and crowded Brasserie Lipp, which Mrs. SFO had always wanted to go to but we never did during our month in the area. Atmosphere? Oui. Classic waiters? Oui. Great people watching? Oui. Good wine? Oui. Good food? Meh, no so much. Mrs. SFO's curiosity has now been satisfied. And I saved 200 euros tonight.







Other than the wine, the best part of the meal.





We got back to the hotel around 1AM. Time to rest up before another day of touring, eating and drinking.