we were there for easter week 2013. not many people around. hotels and restaurants empty. rented a car. spent 3 days in catania. 3 days in syracyusa. 2 days in Agrigento, and 4 days in palermo. we had a gps, which we thought necessary. we had drivers from the hotels pick us up and drop us off at airports. get the car when you leave catania, and drop it off when you arrive in palermo.
the food is fabulous. the people wonderful.